Salerno: cosa vedere nella città degli Arechi

Salerno has experienced a real tourist boom, especially in recent years. The terminus of the Italo and Frecciarossa trains, the city has recently become very lively and full of attractions. Salerno has a very large province, the biggest in Campania. The Amalfi Coast, the Cilento, the Vallo di Diano, the Sele plain and the archaeological area of the ancient Greek city Paestum represent the flagship of the entire province of Salerno.

Salerno was dominated by the Lombards, in particular it was administered by Duke Arechi II. In the 9th century “the Schola Medica Salernitana” was the first and most important medical institution at the European level. Salerno also saw the domination of the Normans and then the Swabians, before yielding to the Spanish. The Gulf of Salerno was the scene of the Allied landings (Operation Avalanche) during World War II, in September 1943. Let’s see what there is to see in Salerno.

What to see in Salerno

Salerno is a splendid seaside city. The narrow streets of the old town still retain the characteristics of a fishing village. It is an ideal destination, both in summer and winter. Thanks to the mild climate because it is located on the sea, the old town of Salerno and its Trieste waterfront, among the longest (and most beautiful) in Italy, are crowded with people during the warmer months and Christmas holidays. Salerno is also called “Garden City” thanks to the public green spaces that grow year by year. For some years (since 2006) Salerno hosts a mega attraction during the Christmas period: Luci d’Artista also known as the Salerno Light Decorations.

Salerno: cultural places of interest

1 The Salerno Cathedral

The Salerno Cathedral was built in the 11th century when the city became the capital of the Norman kingdom. The discovery of the relics of Saint Matthew, patron saint of Salerno, also present on the coat of arms and the banner of the city, dates back to the same period. The Cathedral of Salerno underwent major renovations in the 18th century, especially in the interior part. Outside the Cathedral is a bell tower with Arab influence (12th century). TheLions’ Gate, reachable by a staircase, opens onto the atrium, whose style is also of Arab influence. The Cathedral has a classic three-aisle structure with mosaics, such as that of the apse, influenced by Byzantine art. On either side of the central nave, there are a series of chapels with art treasures and tombs. At the beginning of the left aisle is the tomb of Queen Margaret of Durazzo dating back to the 15th century.

2 The Diocesan Museum of the Salerno Cathedral

The project for a Diocesan Museum of the Salerno Cathedral dates back to 1935 by Mons. Arturo Capone, member of the Primatial Chapter. An important collection is the series of illuminated manuscripts from the 13th-14th centuries, including the Exultet, a long parchment scroll from the 13th century, enriched with fine miniatures, which was unrolled by the deacon during the liturgical ceremonies of Holy Saturday. The museum is located in the former Archbishop’s Seminary of Salerno, once also the seat of the Salerno Medical School.

3 The Provincial Archaeological Museum of Salerno

Behind the Cathedral is the San Benedetto convent complex, since 1927 the seat of the Provincial Archaeological Museum of Salerno. Inside the museum, divided over two floors, there are prehistoric artifacts from excavations throughout the province and a permanent exhibition of the Campanian Etruscan center of Fratte. An area is entirely dedicated to the artifacts of the ancient Salernum, a Roman colony founded in 194 BC. In the Gulf of Salerno, in 1930, a bronze head was found and is displayed in this museum.

4 Salerno Museums

The city of Salerno hosts several other very interesting museums. Among these stands out the Virtual Museum of the Salerno Medical School, the Roberto Papi Museum linked to the Salerno Medical School located in Palazzo Galdieri on Via Trotula de Ruggiero, the Alfonso Tafuri ceramics collection.

5 Creative City Museum

The Creative City Museum of Salerno is a dynamic center for experimentation, exhibition, and documentation of ceramics. It is located at Via Ogliara, 127/143 and is rooted in a territory with a historical and artisanal background characterized since the Middle Ages by the extraction, export, and transformation of clay. Unique sites such as the fascine kilns, which survived in full operation until the nineteenth century, can be visited. Two of these have been restored and are periodically activated using the same ritual as in the 1800s. The old municipal terracotta warehouses have become the Museum’s headquarters, where various urban furnishings have been created, as well as periodic exhibitions events (biennials, experimental shows) involving artists, architects, and associations.

6 Arechi Castle

The Arechi Castle has Roman-Byzantine origins and overlooks the city of Salerno. Positioned on a hill, facing the Gulf of Salerno, the Arechi Castle was expanded by the Lombard prince Arechi II because it was important for his defense strategies and access to the sea of the kingdom. The castle was also expanded during the Norman, Angevin, and Aragonese periods. One wing of the castle exhibits recovered materials and is often used for exhibitions or conferences. The Medieval Monumental Complex of Salerno contains the Castle with the historic part and some large halls where events, conferences, and private ceremonies can be held, the Natural Park, the Medieval Museum, the Multimedia Museum; moreover, it hosts the headquarters of the Provincial Wine Shop of Salerno and a characteristic refreshment point.

The Arechi Castle is open every day from 9:00 am to 2:00 pm and from 4:00 pm until one hour before sunset (Tel. 089.481014).

7 Fratte Archaeological Area

The Fratte archaeological area extends over 4,500 square meters. It is completely open and enclosed by walls and preserves the remains of the Etruscan-Samnite settlement and necropolis. It is arranged as a park, leaving the largest remains of the uncovered structures visible. The Fratte archaeological area is located on the northeastern outskirts of the city of Salerno, along the Irno River, in the current district of Fratte, near the hamlets of Cappelle and Matierno.  The area is about one kilometer from the A2 exit of Salerno-Fratte and is served by urban buses and the Fratte Villa Comunale railway station.

8 San Pietro a Corte Monumental Complex

It is a complex founded by the Lombards. The San Pietro a Corte monumental complex was commissioned by the Duke of Benevento, Arechi II, who in 774, after the defeat of the Northern Lombards by Charlemagne, moved his residence from his city, then the duchy’s capital, to Salerno. Between the 13th and 16th centuries, a chapel dedicated to the Marian cult was created. It was one of the seats of the Salerno Medical School.

Salerno Tourism what to see

9 The historic center of Salerno: medieval neighborhoods

The historic center of ancient Salernum was located between the Fusandola stream (“Portacatena”), the beach, the hill of Arechi Castle (“Monte Bonadies”) and the historic ascent of Carmine (near “Portanova”). The ancient city was divided into four historic districts: Curtis Dominica, Locus Veterensium, Orto Magno, and Plaium Montis. The historic center of Salerno retains its medieval origins. Narrow streets, churches, and buildings of Lombard and Norman origin characterize this part of the city, which originates from the famous Via dei Mercanti, which begins at the Arechi Arch dating back to the 8th century.

10 Verdi Theater of Salerno

The Verdi Theater of Salerno was built on an Italian-style plan with 71 boxes, an orchestra pit, and a gallery. The theater is owned by the municipality and is primarily used for opera or classical music performances. It was designed soon after Italian unification, in 1863, following the closure of the San Matteo theater (about 20 years earlier), but was only inaugurated in 1872. After a restoration period following the 1980 earthquake, the theater reopened in 1997. The Verdi Theater has a capacity of about 610 seats. It is located in the old city area of Salerno, next to the Villa Comunale.

11 The Villa Comunale of Salerno

The architect Casalbore designed the Villa Comunale of Salerno at the end of the 18th century. Historically, it constituted one of the main connection areas of the ancient city with other urban centers located to the northeast, primarily Naples. Famous is the don Tullio fountain, also known as the Esculapio fountain, built at the end of 1790 for passersby. Over the years, the Villa Comunale has been enriched with other monuments dedicated to distinguished historical figures and botanical species, becoming a meeting and gathering place. In recent years, the Villa Comunale has been expanded and new monuments have been added, all decorative. The Villa Comunale is connected to the Verdi Theater by a pedestrian footbridge. Since 2006, it has housed the Enchanted Garden of Luci d’Artista, the lights that decorate the entire city during the Christmas period.

12 The Minerva Garden: botanical garden of the Salerno Medical School

In the area between the Villa Comunale and Arechi Castle, is this splendid botanical garden that was used by the Salerno Medical School: the Minerva Gardens. The botanical garden remains open all year round with variable afternoon hours depending on the season. In February the Minerva Gardens are only open in the mornings, from 9:30 to 13:00. The Minerva Gardens host various educational activities and are visitable with guided tours. The entrance fee is 3 euros with discounts for groups. Children under 6 years old do not pay, as do tourist guides.

13 Trieste Waterfront

The Trieste Waterfront of Salerno is one of the longest (and also most beautiful) in Italy. It begins from Piazza Amendola where are located the Villa Comunale, the Verdi Theater, the City Hall, and the Prefecture. The Salerno waterfront, dotted with palm trees, on one side borders the sea and on the other is flanked by elegant buildings. The waterfront is a landmark of the city. From here, you can walk safely (the path is wide and pedestrian) and enjoy the beautiful view of the Gulf of Salerno and Vietri sul Mare which marks the beginning of the Amalfi Coast. Along the route of the Waterfront is the well-known Piazza della Concordia and the city’s marina (which contrasts with the commercial one further north), from where boats depart for the Amalfi Coast.

14 Salerno lights: Luci D’Artista

Salerno lights d’artista. The historic center of the city of Salerno and some connected areas are decorated with special lights with a different theme each year. Following what already happens in Turin, also in Salerno the event has become a major attraction to the point that the city fills with tourists and excursionists during this period. The Luci d’Artista are enriched every year with collateral events which blend well with the usual Christmas period events. The event starts at the beginning of November and ends early January, just after Epiphany.

15 How to get to Salerno

Salerno is well connected by motorway, rail, air, and sea. By car, from the North: A1 Naples – Salerno: exit Vietri sul Mare or Salerno; A30 Caserta – Rome: exit Fratte/Salerno city center; from the South: A2 Salerno-Reggio Calabria: exit Fratte/Salerno city center; A2 Salerno-Reggio Calabria: exit Pontecagnano direction Fratte/Ring Road: exits from the Industrial Zone to Fratte.  By train (Salerno station): also fast trains (Italo and Frecciarossa).  By ship: daily connections from Salerno Port with Messina, Catania, Palermo, Olbia, Tunis, Malta, and Valencia.  By air: Naples Capodichino airport 50 km away; Salerno Costa d’Amalfi airport (about 20 km).

Salerno what to do

16 What to do in Salerno and surroundings

Salerno is a very lively city. The narrow streets of the historic center and the waterfront are always full of people, especially in the nice season. And from Salerno there are connections to the Amalfi Coast which represents the noble province of the city of Arechi.

There are many things to do in Salerno and surroundings, we suggest some attractions and tours not to be missed. 

17 Where to eat and what to eat in Salerno

The city offers a wide range of food and wine options. Salerno cuisine is part of Campanian cuisine. Therefore, tasty are the first courses based on fish but also the pizza which can also be chosen with a stuffed side (almost always ricotta). In the streets of the historic center, especially in summer, it is possible to eat fried fish served in paper cones. A real delicacy representing Salerno street food. The historic center area of Salerno also abounds with venues offering a variety of options.

A typical sweet of Salerno is the “Cardinal’s Scazzetta” (the cardinal’s galero). It originated in 1920 in the Old Pantaleone Confectionery on Via Mercanti 7. Mario Pantaleone is the owner of the old confectionery whose building was once a chapel dedicated to Saint Antonello, deconsecrated by Murat in 1807.

Also exquisite is the “pizza stuffed with scarola” whose recipe is borrowed from Campanian tradition. Another Salerno specialty is the ice cream brioche. A specialty found in various ice cream shops (recommended is bar Nettuno, on the waterfront, at number 136).

18 Where to sleep in Salerno

The city offers several accommodation options. From the more economical B&Bs and holiday homes to hotels also located on the waterfront. Salerno is a city where sleeping does not cost much, even though in the summer period and especially during the “Luci d’Artista” event, in the Christmas period.