What to Do and See in Roman France of the South: Itinerary ⋆ FullTravel.it

What to Do and See in Roman France of the South: Itinerary

Discovering Gallia Narbonensis, the Roman province of Southern France that has always played a highly strategic role due to its location.

Saint Remy de Provence - Foto di Marcel S.
Maria Ilaria Mura
18 Min Read

The name Provence derives from the fact that this territory was once a Roman province. Indeed, the current French regions of Languedoc-Roussillon and Provence-Alpes-Cote d’Azur formed in Roman times the province of Gallia Transalpina or Gallia Narbonensis, named after the capital Narbonne. The territory was annexed in 121 BC following the military victories of consuls Quintus Fabius Maximus and Gnaeus Domitius Ahenobarbus over the local Allobroges and Arverni tribes. In 58 BC, the beginning of a migration of the Helvetii towards Gaul gave Julius Caesar the pretext to intervene militarily in the region. Caesar’s campaigns, narrated in the De Bello Gallico, lasted until 50 BC and definitively sealed the Roman conquest of all Gaul.

Gallia Narbonensis has always played a crucial role in the development of the Roman Empire: its annexation ensured the protection of land communications with Spain, conquered about a century earlier after the Second Punic War, and at the same time protected Italy from Gallic incursions. The ports of Narbonne and Marseille were strategic for trade in the Mediterranean, and the Rhône River, which crosses the entire province, was the preferred route for transporting metals coming from the Rhineland and the rest of Gaul.

La Maison Carrée in Nimes ©Photo Ilaria Maria Mura/FullTravel.it
La Maison Carrée in Nimes ©Photo Ilaria Maria Mura/FullTravel.it

Searching for the Roman relics of the South of France offers the opportunity to discover archaeological sites of great artistic value, often capable of inspiring awe and emotion due to their grandeur. Here’s a 10-stop itinerary by car and motorcycle.

1 The Trophy of Augustus at La Turbie

Arriving in France by car from Liguria near the Principality of Monaco, the view is drawn to the remains of an imposing monument: the Trophy dedicated to Augustus for his victories over the Alpine tribes. The monument, built in 6 BC, rests on a square pedestal 38 meters on each side with an inscription listing the 46 Alpine tribes defeated by the emperor on the front. On the sides are carved typical symbols of triumph: enemy weapons hung on a tree and defeated Gauls chained. Above the pedestal stands a majestic colonnade giving the Trophy a total height of about 35 meters.

Located on the border between Italy and Gaul, the monument represented the power and unity of the Roman Empire. It was part of a larger complex dedicated to Hercules Monoecus, with whom Augustus was associated, and from which the Principality of Monaco derives its name.

Trophy of Augustus at La Turbie ©Photo Ilaria Maria Mura/FullTravel.it
Trophy of Augustus at La Turbie ©Photo Ilaria Maria Mura/FullTravel.it

2 Frejus

The town of Frejus stands on the site of the Roman city Forum Iulii. Its name reveals its commercial vocation (favored also by its location at the crossroads of the Via Julia Augusta and the Via Domitia) and founding by Julius Caesar. It was the only military port of the Roman fleet of Gallia Narbonensis. During the reign of Emperor Tiberius (14-37 AD), its major public works were constructed. The most impressive is the amphitheater, capable of holding about 12,000 spectators. Although largely rebuilt after being submerged following the breaking of the Malpasset dam in 1959, the original structural parts of the tiers can still be admired.

Also visible are parts of the aqueduct, the walls, and the harbor lighthouse (known as Lanterne Auguste). Finally, the columns of the cathedral baptistery, dating from the 5th century AD, were reused from an earlier Roman structure.

Remains of the aqueduct at Frejus - Photo by Greudin
Remains of the aqueduct at Frejus – Photo by Greudin

3 Marseille

Massalia (later Massilia) was a Greek colony. Marseille was allied with Rome since the time of Tarquin the Elder, which brought great advantages for its Mediterranean trade at the expense of the Carthaginians and Etruscans. In Roman times, it was a free civitas, an independent city from the provincial governor but still subject to Rome. For siding with Pompey during the First Triumvirate, it was besieged and reconquered by Caesar: it maintained its legal status but lost its fleet and all possessions in Gaul which were transferred to nearby Arelate (Arles).

The Musée d’Histoire de Marseille exhibits a selection of archaeological remains from the Greek and Roman periods and presents 3D reconstructions of ancient urban planning. The adjacent archaeological area of the Bourse is part of the museum trail, featuring remains of the port and Greek walls.

The Roman Dock Museum houses some structures related to the Roman port, including stone silos and large buried ceramic jars used as cold-storage cells.

The Dock Museum of Marseille ©Photo Ilaria Maria Mura/FullTravel.it
The Dock Museum of Marseille ©Photo Ilaria Maria Mura/FullTravel.it

4 Arles

Roman Arelate (today Arles) preserves numerous relics which, along with Romanesque monuments, have been included in the UNESCO World Heritage list. The two entertainment buildings, the amphitheater and the theater, are particularly spectacular. The former, built in the 1st century AD, could hold about 21,000 spectators grouped in four tiers based on social class. The theater, dating from the 1st century BC, is where the famous statue of the Venus of Arles, now preserved at the Louvre, was found, along with numerous fine architectural fragments visible on-site. Both buildings were fortified during the medieval period, and most of the stones from the seating tiers were reused for later constructions. Homes had even been built inside, completely distorting their appearance and function. Only from the early 19th century did a restoration and preservation process begin, restoring them to their original look.

The only visible external part of the Roman forum today consists of two columns and part of the pediment of a temple in the Place du Forum. The forum in Arles was originally built on a slope; thus, to level the pavement, a cryptoporticus—a series of underground galleries acting as foundations—was constructed. This fascinating environment is accessible today via the Jesuit chapel. Inside are remarkable Roman architectural pieces, likely extracted during the medieval period from other monuments and stored here.

Arles was dear to Emperor Constantine, who established a residence here and convened the first council in 314 AD, shortly after Christianity was recognized. From the Constantinian period are an important thermal building partially incorporated into surrounding houses, an early Christian basilica, and the necropolis of Les Alyscamps, which houses the burials of Saints Trophimus and Genesius.

The amphitheater of Arles ©Photo Ilaria Maria Mura/FullTravel.it
The amphitheater of Arles ©Photo Ilaria Maria Mura/FullTravel.it

5 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

Near the town of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence lie the remains of the Roman city of Glanum. Originally a foundation of Greeks from nearby Marseille, it prospered during the Republican era and became a Roman colony under Augustus. It is possible to visit a large part of the ancient city, including public buildings, houses, and the thermal spring district, considered sacred and therefore monumentalized and accompanied by the temples of Valetudo, Roman goddess of health, and of Hercules, along with numerous votive altars.

About 200 meters from the archaeological area are two other notable monuments. The first is a perfectly preserved Augustan mausoleum, whose inscription tells us it was dedicated by the brothers Sextus, Marcus, and Lucius of the gens Iulia to their parents. Next to it stand the remains of a triumphal arch which, like the monument at La Turbie, celebrated Augustus’s victory over the Gauls.

Augustus’ triumphal arch at Glanum ©Photo Ilaria Maria Mura/FullTravel.it

6 Nimes

Ancient Nemausus was one of the largest cities in Gaul. Even today it is rich in Roman monuments, earning it the nickname “French Rome.” In the city center stands the imposing amphitheater, whose history is very similar to the amphitheater of Arles. In excellent condition is the Maison Carrée, a Roman temple from the 1st century AD, the only remaining trace of the city forum. The temple was dedicated to Gaius and Lucius Caesar, Augustus’s grandsons and designated heirs, both of whom died young. The monument is well preserved because it was reused over the centuries as a Catholic church. In the public park Jardins de la Fontaine, visitors can see the remains of the so-called Temple of Diana, whose basilica-shaped plan likely had a civil function (a library has been suggested).

Of the original city walls, approximately 6 kilometers long, only the massive Tour Magne, the Porte d’Arles (or Porte d’Auguste), and an arch from the Porte de France embedded between two houses remain. Just outside the center lies the Castellum aquae, part of the final infrastructure of the local aqueduct, famous for the Pont du Gard.

The Temple of Diana in Nimes ©Photo Ilaria Maria Mura/FullTravel.it
The Temple of Diana in Nimes ©Photo Ilaria Maria Mura/FullTravel.it

7 The Pont du Gard

About 30 kilometers from Nimes stands the imposing Pont du Gard, a UNESCO World Heritage monument. The structure was part of the aqueduct that carried water from the source at Uzès to Nimes, allowing crossing of the Gardon River. Built in the 1st century AD, it is 275 meters long and 49 meters high, with three tiers of arches: the lowest was passable by carts while water flowed on the top tier.

The Nimes aqueduct as a whole is an extraordinary engineering work. Stretching 50 kilometers, it has a gradient of 34 centimeters per kilometer, for a total elevation change of only 17 meters. To help water flow smoothly, the aqueduct channel was coated with a mixture of pork fat, olive oil, and fig sap. The Pont du Gard site, in open countryside with a calm, swim-friendly river, is also ideal for a pleasant day trip.

The Pont du Gard ©Photo Ilaria Maria Mura/FullTravel.it
The Pont du Gard ©Photo Ilaria Maria Mura/FullTravel.it

8 Orange

The Roman colony Arausium, today Orange, is best known for its beautiful theater of Augustan times. Not only is it sizable (it could hold about 9,000 spectators), but it is also one of the few in the world to preserve fully intact its imposing stage wall, 103 meters long and 37 meters high. The wall, which ensured the building’s acoustic quality, was originally covered in colored marble and divided into three levels decorated with niches, columns, and statues. The doors on the lower level served as entrances for actors. Above the main door, reserved for leading actors, was a frieze depicting Centaurs, today preserved at the local archaeological museum. The central niche on the second level houses a grand statue of Augustus with the attributes of a conqueror; this statue likely replaced an earlier one of Apollo, protector of the arts, to remind the public of the value of the Roman peace (pax romana). On each side of the stage, two towers stored stage equipment.

Orange’s other great monument is the triumphal arch, located at the city entrance for those arriving by road from Lyon. It is the oldest known three-arched triumphal arch. It was built between 20-25 AD to celebrate the victories of Germanicus and the Legio II Gallica, whose veterans founded Arausium, and was later rededicated to Tiberius in 27 AD. Due to their historical and artistic value, Orange’s Roman monuments are included in the UNESCO World Heritage list.

The theater of Orange - Photo by Patrick Giraud
The theater of Orange – Photo by Patrick Giraud

9 Vaison-la-Romaine

Vaison-la-Romaine was originally one of the main cities of the Vocontii tribe, who maintained relative independence even during Roman rule when the city took the name Vasio Julia Vocontiorum. The Roman city is located along the left bank of the Ouvèze River, while the medieval city developed on the hill on the right bank, which was easier to defend. The river is crossed by a charming Roman bridge from the 1st century AD.

Roman remains are found in two adjacent areas within the current town, Puymin and La Villasse. The Puymin site features some large villas, still today appreciated for their mosaic decorations. Among them stand out the House of the Laurelled Apollo and the House of the Pergola, developed over the years from a modest rural house to a space of about 3,000 square meters. In the same area are the theater, whose seating is completely reconstructed but whose internal galleries retain their original atmosphere, and a small antiquarium with a significant selection of artifacts from the city.

In La Villasse, public areas prevail, such as shopping streets, baths, and fountains. The architectural and urban quality shows it was a very wealthy center. This area also has some sumptuous villas: the Dolphin House, which was also a farm, and the House of the Silver Bust, the largest in Vaison (5,000 square meters) with an attached thermal complex initially public and later integrated into the villa.

The archaeological area of La Villasse in Vaison-la-Romaine ©Photo Ilaria Maria Mura/FullTravel.it
The archaeological area of La Villasse in Vaison-la-Romaine ©Photo Ilaria Maria Mura/FullTravel.it

10 Vienne

Originally the capital of the Allobroges tribe, Vienne was transformed by Caesar into a colony named Colonia Julia Viennensis. Following the late imperial administrative reorganization by Diocletian, Vienne assumed a central role in the diocese that included Gallia Narbonensis and Aquitaine and was chosen as a residence by several emperors, including Constantine, Flavius Claudius Julianus, and Valentinian II.

The city preserves significant monuments from the 1st century AD. The temple, according to its inscription, was dedicated to the goddess Roma, to Augustus, and to Livia, wife of Augustus, deified after her death. It is therefore a temple dedicated to the imperial cult according to Augustan political propaganda. The Garden of Cybele is an archaeological park where remains of the ancient forum area can be admired. The theater, which annually hosts the renowned Jazz à Vienne festival, stands near a smaller Odeon, as in Lyon. The circus dates to the late antique period; one of the obelisks placed at one end of the circuit remains. Because of its shape and the fact that it was built with granite from Aswan, this monument is known as La Pyramide. On the opposite bank of the Rhône River lies the site of Saint-Romain-en-Gal, once the residential and artisanal district of Vienne. The site also houses the interesting Gallo-Roman Museum.

The Roman temple of Vienne - Photo by Gordito
The Roman temple of Vienne – Photo by Gordito

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