Sintra is located about 30 kilometers from Lisbon. Despite the short distance, the two places could not be more different: Sintra is immersed in greenery, in a mountainous area that abruptly ends only in front of the Ocean, creating a rugged and troubled coast.
The beauty of the landscape has opened a breach in the romantic heart of many nobles and artists who, since the eighteenth century, have chosen to holiday here. Among them, Hans Christian Andersen and Lord Byron, who called it the “glorious Eden”.
Therefore, it is not surprising that the territory of Sintra hosts numerous villas and palaces, once residences of royalty and aristocrats, which in 1995 became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Sintra things to see
1 The landscape of Sintra
The territory of Sintra is characterized by the Sierra de Sintra, a chain about 10 kilometers long, stretching between the northern edge of the estuary of the Tagus and the Atlantic Ocean, culminating with the Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of continental Europe. These are not particularly high mountains: the highest peak, Cruz Alta, is 529 meters high. Their sedimentary nature, however, generates a very undulating landscape, sometimes rough, covered by lush vegetation.
These roughnesses overlook the coast, almost always high and rocky, which occasionally opens onto beautiful beaches. Following the coastline northwards are, in order, the wild and hidden Praia da Ursa, the more accessible Praia da Adraga, and the Praia Grande, exposed to the fury of the Ocean and thus a paradise for experienced surfers. On the hills bordering the beach on the southern side of Praia Grande it is possible to see numerous fossil footprints of dinosaurs.
2 The National Palace of Sintra
The National Palace of Sintra (Sintra Palacio Nacional) stands in the center of the town. Its origins date back to the time of domination by North African Muslim populations who, in the Early Middle Ages, had conquered the Iberian Peninsula. After the Reconquest, it became the property of the kings of Portugal who, starting from the 15th century, began to rebuild it and add, over the centuries, new parts. These bodies, although conceived independently, are harmoniously connected by staircases and courtyards, making the residence a beautiful example of organic architecture.
The dominant style is Manueline Gothic. The most fascinating room, despite the rich decoration of the official halls, is the kitchen famous for its two huge conical chimneys 33 meters high. These chimneys, visible from far away, have become an icon of the city.
3 The Quinta da Regaleira
Located a short distance from the center of Sintra, the Quinta da Regaleira was the estate of Antonio Augusto Carvalho Monteiro, nicknamed “The Millionaire” for the fortune he had accumulated in Brazil through the trade of precious stones and coffee. The property, built in the early 20th century, includes a palace, a chapel, and a huge park full of fountains, caves, and tunnels, often interconnected.
The architecture is predominantly neo-Gothic, although there are references to other styles. But the most interesting feature of the complex is the symbolism and the collection of esoteric references that pervade it: the structures and decorations seem to evoke Freemasonry, of which Monteiro was a part, but also the world of the Templars and the Rosicrucians, as well as occult sciences such as alchemy. The most striking example is two wells, resembling “negative” towers, that were probably used for initiation rites also related to card reading practices.
4 The Castelo dos Mouros
The Castelo dos Mouros takes us back to the Middle Ages: it is indeed a fortress built between the 8th and 9th centuries AD by Moorish populations. Its peaceful submission to Christian troops, which took place in 1147, marked an important moment in the history of the Reconquest, since the fortress dominated the entire territory of Sintra. After a few centuries of abandonment, its restoration and enhancement began in the mid-19th century by King Ferdinand II. Visiting the Castelo dos Mouros is a unique experience: although the steep incline requires some physical effort, the effort will be rewarded by the wonderful panoramas and the charm of the path along the fortifications. Do not miss also the remains of the chapel, inside the city walls.
5 The Pena Palace
At the top of a hill in Sintra there was a medieval chapel, to which a monastery was later added, built on the site of an apparition of Our Lady of Pena. In the 19th century King Ferdinand II decided to build the summer residence of the Portuguese royal family including the remains of this complex: thus was born the Pena Palace. This residence is considered one of the highest expressions of Romantic architecture for its eclecticism taken to its extreme consequences. The impression one has during the visit is that of a journey through time through baroque, gothic, Islamic, Manueline, and Renaissance architectures juxtaposed boldly. Completing the visual impact is an extravagant color palette, dominated by shades of red, yellow, and blue. The interiors, decorated with stuccoes, trompe-l’oeil frescoes, and azulejos, the typical painted tiles, are consistent with the opulence and eccentricity of the outside. Due to its position and vivid coloration, the Pena Palace is even visible from Lisbon on clear days.
6 The Monserrate Palace
Originally a chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Monserrat and subsequently an agricultural estate, the Monserrate Palace today appears as a neo-Moorish style residence. It was built in the mid-19th century by Sir Francis Cook, who entrusted the design of the park to the English landscape painter William Stockdale and a botanist. Indeed, the park, which extends for about 30 hectares, is probably the most spectacular part of the complex, with more than 2,500 species of plants grouped according to their geographic area of origin.
7 The Capuchin Convent
In the middle of the woods of Sintra, about 7 kilometers from the town center, are the ruins of a monastery of Capuchin friars. Built in the mid-16th century, the Capuchin Convent remained in use until 1830, when monastic orders were abolished in Portugal. Since then it has been abandoned, becoming one with the surrounding nature. Therefore, for those who love gothic landscapes, these isolated ruins covered with moss are an unmissable attraction.
8 Queluz
The Queluz Palace is an elegant royal residence in Rococo style. Built starting from the mid-18th century, it is called “the Versailles of Portugal” although, unlike the French palace, its smaller size conveys refinement rather than magnificence. Queluz is characterized by its many facades and the garden. The main facade, which opens directly onto a city square, is very sober. On the front of the Robillon wing, the staircase with steps of different heights creates a perspective illusion that increases its majesty. On the southern side of the same wing, a sober Doric colonnade contrasts with the upper order decorated in Baroque style. Finally, the facade of the ballroom recalls the style of Borromini. The gardens are decorated with statues and fountains, including one with tritons and dolphins attributed to Bernini. Along the gardens runs a canal, over 100 meters long, bordered by embankments richly decorated with azulejos.
9 What to eat in Sintra
As in the entire coastal area of Portugal, in Sintra it is possible to find excellent fish restaurants with reasonable prices. The king of Portuguese cuisine is bacalhau (cod), which in this country can be enjoyed in 365 different ways, one for every day of the year. The other typical dish is arroz de mariscos, risotto with crustaceans and seafood. Halfway between land and sea is carne de porco a Alentejo, pork cooked together with clams. Also typical of the area is the tasty frango assado, roast chicken. In the Sintra territory, on sandy soils a short distance from the Ocean, is the Colares area, famous for its own-rooted vineyards. From here come fine red wines that must absolutely be tasted.
10 Where to sleep in Sintra
If you want to experience an aristocratic stay in Sintra, the place to go is the Palacio de Seteais. Built in neoclassical style in the 18th century for the Dutch ambassador Daniel Gildemeester, it is now a luxury hotel of the Tivoli chain, with frescoed rooms, a SPA, and a beautiful park with a swimming pool. Double room starting from 180 Euros. An alternative in the city center, just a few steps from the National Palace, is the Tivoli Hotel, a four-star hotel from the same chain as the Palacio de Seteais. Double room starting from 80 Euros.
