Musée Jacquemart-André, jewel of art in the heart of Paris ⋆ FullTravel.it

Musée Jacquemart-André, jewel of art in the heart of Paris

In the aristocratic heart of Paris, there is a museum far less known than the famous Louvre, Musée d’Orsay, and Beaubourg, but surprising for the richness and taste of its collection: it is the Musée Jacquemart-André.

Il grand salon ©Foto Maria Ilaria Mura/FullTravel.it
Maria Ilaria Mura
10 Min Read

Edouard André came from a very wealthy family of bankers active in Paris in the 19th century. Around 1869 he decided to build his residence on a 5,700 square meter plot in the elegant Boulevard Haussmann, recently created with the urban revolution of the Grands Boulevards. The villa was inaugurated in 1876 with a lavish reception attended by all of high society and Parisian celebrities. Meanwhile, in 1872, Edouard commissioned his portrait from Nélie Jacquemart, a young painter who had earned a good reputation as a portraitist. In 1881, when Edouard was 48 years old, he decided to marry Nélie.

A Couple of Art Collectors

The marriage fueled gossip at the time, since the two came from completely different families, both in terms of culture (he was a Bonapartist Protestant and she a filo-monarchist Catholic) and economic status. Moreover, they had no children, which led to speculation that there was no particular romantic affection between them. What actually made the marriage work and made it unique was their shared passion for art collecting. The couple regularly traveled to the Near East and Europe, particularly Italy, to purchase works.

Together they collected 207 sculptures and 97 paintings. Among these, the acquisition of the Tiepolo frescoes from the Villa Contarini Pisani in Mira (near Venice), which decorate four rooms of the residence, was almost epic. The frescoes were discovered by the couple during a trip to Italy in 1893. The main scene, which decorates the staircase of the winter garden, depicts the stopover of Henry III in Venice while he was en route from Poland to Paris to become king of France, and his visit to the Doge Contarini right at the villa from which the paintings come. Transporting them from Venice to Paris and reinstalling them in the Jacquemart-André residence took eight months, also because some architectural adaptations of the house were necessary. Furthermore, the main painting was divided into two parts, and the second part was relocated to the ceiling of the dining room.

Edouard was able to enjoy the view of the Tiepolo frescoes for only a few months because he died, just sixty years old, in July 1894. His family attempted to seize the estate, but a prenuptial contract had protected Nélie, who was therefore the sole heir. Nélie arranged that, upon her death, the house with all the works would pass to the state. She set the condition that the works remain exactly as she had arranged them. Therefore, the visit route faithfully follows her design.

Tiepolo's fresco in the winter garden ©Photo Maria Ilaria Mura/FullTravel.it
Tiepolo’s fresco in the winter garden ©Photo Maria Ilaria Mura/FullTravel.it

The reception rooms and informal apartments

The first rooms you visit are the reception rooms, where the couple’s social life took place. The stylistic theme is 18th-century art, well represented by the paintings and marble busts on display, but also recalled by the semicircular shape of the main room, the grand salon. Guests entered the painting gallery, which served as an antechamber, and were welcomed by paintings by Canaletto, Boucher, Chardin, and Nattier. The grand salon was the heart of this area; on the occasion of the most important receptions it was connected to the adjacent painting gallery and music room thanks to a hydraulic system that allowed its dividing walls to be opened. The unique environment thus created could accommodate up to a thousand people. The original dining room is today the museum’s restaurant and offers the unique opportunity to take a break surrounded by 18th-century Brussels tapestries and the ceiling frescoed by Tiepolo, with a view of the villa garden.

The informal apartments were the rooms where the spouses conducted their business. Although less emphatic than the reception rooms, they are equally a treasure trove of artworks, arranged consistently with the function and style of the various environments. Among the furniture, all from the best manufactories of the 17th and 18th centuries, stands out a marquetry console commissioned directly by Louis XVI as a gift for Mademoiselle de Fontanges. The tapestry room was built entirely around the three tapestries from the Beauvais manufactory that Edouard already owned before building the house. And then, naturally, there are the paintings: the study houses a collection of 19th-century French artists, while the library is decorated with works by Dutch and Flemish painters including Van Dyck and Rembrandt. One must not forget to look up to admire the ceilings, with frescoes by Tiepolo from Villa Contarini Pisani in the study and boudoir, and by Tintoretto in the fumoir.

At the far east side of the ground floor is the winter garden. Being adjacent to the music room, it allowed guests at receptions to relax in a bright environment decorated with Roman statues, plants, marbles, and mirrors. The main feature of the winter garden is the beautiful monumental double helix staircase, made light by a very fine iron and bronze railing. The wall hosts the fresco from Villa Contarini depicting the visit of Henry III.

The ceiling of the music room ©Photo Maria Ilaria Mura/FullTravel.it

The Italian Museum

A large part of the first floor was originally intended to be Nélie’s painting studio. However, the lady gave up this art practice shortly after the wedding. At the same time, the couple discovered they were passionate about Italian Renaissance art and adopted the custom of traveling to Italy once a year to purchase works from this period. This space therefore became the treasure chest of Renaissance collections, with a true museum setup. Unlike the reception rooms, only close friends had the privilege of visiting this part of the house. Besides the sculpture gallery, which features a wonderful bronze plaque by Donatello depicting the martyrdom of Saint Sebastian, the other two rooms that make it up are crucial to understanding the taste of the two spouses.

For Nélie, the best art came from Florence. She thus set up a room whose central theme is Florentine religious art. This room has the appearance of a chapel because it features some altarpieces, funerary monuments, and stalls. The paintings, although small in size, are among the most precious works of the entire collection. There is indeed a Saint George and the Dragon, an emblematic and strongly symbolic work by Paolo Uccello whom Nélie courted for years after seeing it in the Florentine home of an antiquarian, but she could only purchase it at an auction in London in 1899 because she would not have been allowed to take it out of Italy after the controversies that arose from the acquisition of Tiepolo frescoes. Then there is a pair of Madonnas with Child, works respectively by Botticelli and Perugino. The type of composition is similar since the two painters came from the same school and both were inspired by Andrea Verrocchio, so much so that when Nélie bought the Botticelli, she initially thought it was actually a Verrocchio.

Edouard, on the other hand, preferred Venetian and Northern Italian art, a less common choice among collectors of his time. His Venetian gallery combines religious subjects (including a Madonna with Child by Bellini and an Ecce Homo by Mantegna), with mythological subjects such as the Visit of the Amazon Hippolyta to Theseus by Carpaccio. The visit ends with the most intimate part of the house: the bedrooms of the two spouses.

La camera da letto di Nélie ©Foto Maria Ilaria Mura/FullTravel.it
Nélie’s bedroom ©Photo Maria Ilaria Mura/FullTravel.it

The Domaine de Chaalis

There is another place linked to the history of Nélie Jacquemart and it is the Domaine de Chaalis, an estate 40 kilometers from Paris, in the heart of the Valois. Widowed, after settling the disputes related to her inheritance, Nélie embarked on a world tour in 1901. Returning the following year, she purchased the Domaine and dedicated herself until her death to furnishing it and setting up a collection of marble busts and art objects that ideally tell the story of the royal abbey that is part of the complex.

In this arrangement, as well as in that of the Paris house, Nélie reveals her desire to share over time her passion with those who, like her, love art and history.

Geen reacties

Geef een reactie

Je e-mailadres wordt niet gepubliceerd. Vereiste velden zijn gemarkeerd met *