A about an hour by train from London, departing from Waterloo station, there is Winchester, a town rich in history and art. Its first settlement was Breton, but the first true city was a Roman foundation, Venta Belgarum. In 827, with King Egbert, it became the capital of England.
When William the Conqueror also made London the capital, he was crowned in both cities, a practice adopted by other kings until London became definitively the sole capital of the kingdom.
William the Conqueror also tasked the monks of Winchester with compiling the Domesday Book, the great property census of much of England and Wales.
Winchester can be explored on foot to admire its monuments and to lose oneself in its authentic medieval corners.
What to see in Winchester, England
1 Winchester Cathedral
A visit to Winchester cannot ignore the Cathedral, the most important monument of the city and one of the most beautiful churches in England. The first thing that strikes is the size, especially the length: 167 meters. The dominant style is Gothic, but the transept is a beautiful example of Norman architecture. Inside are precious works of art: the bishop’s tomb chapels, among which stand out the richly decorated tomb of Bishop Wykheam and that of Bishop Fox; the precious 14th-century carved stalls; a splendid 12th-century Norman baptismal font made of black Tournai marble, sculpted with the stories of Saint Nicholas; the 13th-century frescoes of the Chapel of Holy Sepulchry and the Guardians’ Angel Chapel.
The Cathedral also houses a double memorial to the writer Jane Austen, who spent a large part of her life in Winchester. When she died, she was not particularly famous, so the inscription on the simple gravestone refers only to the “extraordinary endowments of her mind”. The posthumous success of her novels earned her another memorial, not large but richer and more ornate, specifically mentioning her qualities as a writer.
From the transept you can access the beautiful 17th-century library and the treasury, where a 13th-century illuminated Bible stands out. Many volunteers provide a free guided tour service, highly recommended if you want to discover the secrets and stories of Winchester Cathedral.
2 Around Winchester Cathedral
Leaving the Cathedral, you can admire the various buildings connected to it. You can start by walking along the exterior of the right nave, where a passage called The Slype leads to The Close, the bishop’s enclosure partly surrounded by walls. Some Norman arches reveal the former existence of the chapter house which connected the Cathedral transept to the Deanery. Walking along the 17th-century buildings of the Long Gallery and Pilgrims’ School leads to Dome Alley with beautiful timber-framed houses. Passing through St Swithun’s Gate you find the 14th-century Kingsgate on the left, above whose arch is the small church of St Swithun upon Kingsgate.
3 Wolvesley Castle
Next to the enclosure of the current bishop’s palace, a path surrounded by greenery leads to an unexpected place: the ruins of Wolvesley Castle, the medieval bishop’s palace destroyed during the civil war of 1646. Its origins date back to 970 but it was expanded in the first half of the 12th century.
Its ruins occupy a very large area, still showing the chapel and the hall which was the setting for the wedding banquet of Queen Mary and Philip of Spain in 1554. What impresses most are the fortifications, added by Henry II in the second half of the 12th century, giving the site the appearance of a castle, hence the name.
4 Great Hall and the Round Table
The only surviving parts of the castle built by William the Conqueror are the foundations of the Round Tower and, above all, the Great Hall, the large central hall, perfectly preserved, famous for housing the Round Table. Obviously, it is not that of King Arthur, but it is still a remarkable example of 14th-century wooden craftsmanship, possibly produced for a tournament, bearing the names of the knights and the image of the king.
5 High Street
The High Street is the main street of the town and follows the decumanus, one of the main axes of the Roman city. It is completely pedestrian and is home to shops and restaurants, often housed in charming timber-framed houses. It is accessed by crossing the Westgate which houses a small museum inside, worthwhile to visit for access to the roof, from where there is a beautiful view of the city.
The Old Guildhall, with a large clock projecting onto the street, is today the headquarters of Lloyds Bank. At the end of the street, on the right, stands the neo-Gothic Guildhall and in the center, the statue of Alfred the Great dated 1901.
6 Winchester College
The most prestigious cultural institution in the city is Winchester College, the oldest private school in England. Founded in 1382, it was originally reserved for the less wealthy, while today it is one of the most exclusive schools in the country and is internationally renowned.
Inside are 80 historic buildings, mostly dating from the late 14th century and still regularly used, spread over a garden of about 45,000 square meters. You can visit the treasury, consisting of a collection of archaeological artifacts preserved in the atmospheric stables. It is recommended to take the guided tour, through which you will have the opportunity to discover the most beautiful rooms of the complex.
To get a preview of Winchester College, you can watch this short documentary
7 The Military Museums
Near the Great Hall is the Winchester’s Military Quarter, where some late 18th-century barracks house six collections of English regiments from 1702 to today. It is possible to discover the history, among others, of the King’s Royal Hussars, the Royal Hampshire Regiment, the Royal Green Jackets and the Gurkhas from Nepal who served the English Empire for about 200 years. One of the most popular attractions is the diorama of the Battle of Waterloo, displayed at the Royal Green Jackets Museum.
Aside from specific interest in military history, the Military Quarter site is historically and architecturally interesting. It is located where William the Conqueror had built his castle, which was partially destroyed after the civil war. In 1683 Charles II decided to build his palace here, modeled on that of Versailles, designed by the famous architect Christopher Wren, the same as the St Paul’s Cathedral in London. However, construction stopped at the king’s death and the buildings, after decades of disuse and decay, were temporarily used for military purposes until they officially became barracks from the late 18th century, housing 3,000 soldiers during the Napoleonic wars.
8 The Itchen River and the City Mill
Winchester is also a charming water city, with the Itchen River and its canals that lap the historic center offering opportunities for splendid walks in the greenery, such as the Keats’ Walk. The power of the Itchen water is harnessed in the City Mill, a mill from 1774 built on a previous medieval building. The mill is still in use and it’s possible to witness the grain processing and flour packaging first-hand, with flour also available for purchase on site.
9 Where to eat in Winchester
Winchester’s cuisine is typical of pubs, which are scattered throughout the historic center. Some are very old, such as The Eclypse Inn, housed in the 16th-century house that was originally the rectory of the St Lawrence Church. The God Begot House, which dates back to 1052, hosts on the High Street side a restaurant of the Ask chain and on the side of the very narrow alley the The Royal Oak pub.
To try traditional cuisine with a slightly more sophisticated twist, in a cozy design interior, Pitcher and Piano, next to the Guildhall, is the ideal place.
10 Where to stay
Winchester can be visited in one day. But if you want to extend your stay for one or more days, some historic center pubs such as The Wykeham Arms and The Old Vine have some rooms upstairs where you can stay, ideally savoring the spirit of medieval inns.
For a luxury experience, about 4 kilometers from the town center, in the Hampshire countryside, there is Lainston House, a 17th-century villa converted into a five-star hotel.
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