Pisciotta, the village suspended between water and land

When you arrive in Pisciotta it feels like you have just entered a black and white movie, one of those of Italian neorealism. The houses along the road that cuts through the village, an old provincial road, are in perfect Cilentan style. There is not just urban planning but authenticity, that is certainly not lacking. “Welcome to Pisciotta, the village suspended between water and land“, I would feel like reading. Instead, the sign at the beginning of the small town reminds me that we are in the village of oil, the one made from the native olive which, in this part of the Cilentan coast, is called “pisciottana“. The inhabitants of Pisciotta, like all other Cilentans, have earned their living from shepherding over the centuries. And the combination of shepherding and sea is still very strong in this land.

The Cilento

The province south of Salerno is almost entirely named Cilento, except for the Vallo Di Diano to the east, towards Basilicata, and the area of the Sele river. The coastal Cilento is not very different from the inland. The entire Cilento was part of Ancient Lucania and today, despite centuries having passed and being in Campania, Lucanian influences are still very strong in this area. The Cilentan dialect, moreover, borrows largely from Lucanian, an Oscan language. Customs and traditions also have strong Lucanian influences.

Pisciotta is no exception. Symbol of the coastal Cilento, in the National Park of Cilento and Vallo di Diano, the village is round-shaped, about three kilometers from the coast and is entirely surrounded by ancient olive trees. It has about 2600 inhabitants and in recent years it has seen many foreign presences, especially from Northern Europe and Australians.

10 Things to Do and See in Pisciotta, in Cilento

1 The alleys and historic center of Pisciotta

The starting point to visit the village of Pisciotta is undoubtedly “Largo Piazza” of “piazza Raffaele Pinto“. If you arrive by car, look for parking nearby and continue on foot, climbing through the labyrinth of alleys in the historic center. The village streets are very narrow, flanked by ancient noble palaces, common houses, and some chapels like that of San Michele Arcangelo and the Madonna della Mercede (fishermen would go there as a sign of thanks), clear signs of religious belonging. In Via Roma there are worn signs from time reminding us of old shops and the ancient pharmacy of the town. The historic center of Pisciotta entirely reflects its medieval position. It is here that the inhabitants took refuge to defend themselves from the attacks of Saracens, whose raids plagued all the coasts of the southern Bel Paese.

2 The Marchesale Palace of Pisciotta

The Marchesale Palace of Pisciotta, belonging to the Pappacoda family, is located along the ascent of Via Roma. The entrance of the eighteenth-century palace is preceded by a narrow and long alley. Once past the threshold of the large door, you are catapulted into an atrium with a large staircase in sight and large windows, all open, like arches, through which you can see ancient fig trees, wild plants, and the indispensable olive trees that dot a garden clearly inspired by Cilento. The palace is partly inhabited and partially visitable.

3 Cannone Square of Pisciotta

The narrow alleys of Pisciotta open onto picturesque small squares overlooking ancient palaces and common houses. In the historic center, just leaving the main square “Raffaele Pinto“, also called “Largo Piazza“, you can refresh yourself from the climb by stopping at the Piazzetta del Cannone, so called because there is an ancient cannon here. The belvedere of the square appears as a large terrace with a view that loses itself among the rooftops of houses, the greenery of olive trees, and, downstream, the sea view. On the wall bordering the access road, Via Roma, murals are on display that, between warning and story, tell how bandits have populated the modern history of the place, as in nearby Lucania and the rest of Campania.

4 Michelangelo Pagano Square in Pisciotta

At the end of Via Roma, towards the Mother Church of Pisciotta, a broad spot attracts attention: Michelangelo Pagano Square. Among ancient palaces, such as Palazzo Francia and the north side of the mother church, the picturesque square appears halfway between a tavern with an open terrace and a film set. However, it is none of these. The Pagano Square of Pisciotta is a place where time stops and remains suspended between wonder and the beauty of a south, wild and authentic.

5 Mother Church of Saints Peter and Paul

The mother church of Pisciotta is dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul. It overlooks Pagano Square and has an unusual side entrance because the main one is only used on special occasions. The church has a single, very large nave and dates back to the 17th century although it has undergone several restorations. Inside, there are some works of the Neapolitan school and clear Baroque references. Other churches in Pisciotta are the del Carmine which features an electric clock installed at the end of the ’60s by a company from Potenza; the Church of the Assumption also called “della Stella” and the Shrine of Saint Agnello Abate in nearby Rodio.

6 The Cats of Pisciotta

In the alleys of the historic center of Pisciotta you will be pleasantly accompanied by the cats of Pisciotta. Males, females, of various colors, tabbies, kittens, lovers, curious and wary, the cats of Pisciotta, who do not belong to any particular breed except that of the street, although all have an owner, make the visit to the village even more authentic. Each alley reserves a close encounter with a domestic feline and, at every corner, one cat disappears to make way for another from the neighborhood. A feline relay. And if you come during the mating season, you will be accompanied by the loud meows of males looking for females.

7 The Port and Marina of Pisciotta

About three kilometers from the town is the Marina of Pisciotta and the small tourist port. The stretch of sea here, as in all of Cilento (from Agropoli to Sapri), is of striking beauty. Many Cilentan locations have been Blue Flag for years, and Pisciotta is no exception, making environmental protection a true banner. The local school, in fact, is absolutely “plastic free” and other measures are taken to best protect this Cilentan jewel. Like many southern coasts, here you also find lookout towers, some private and others reachable after a trekking path.

8 How to get to Pisciotta

Pisciotta is served by the state railways station “Pisciotta-Palinuro” (Naples-Reggio Calabria line). The train travel time from Naples is about two hours while from Rome it takes just over three and a half hours. The nearest airport is Naples Capodichino, although if the one at Salerno Costa d’Amalfi works, it is the reference hub. The alternative to the train is certainly a car. And that is the advice I want to give you, besides a bicycle (for athletes). Arriving in Pisciotta by car means taking a slow journey and immersing yourself in the beauty of all of Cilento.

Some directions. From the North: from the A3 Salerno – Reggio Calabria highway, exit at Buonabitacolo and continue on SS 517. Near Policastro Bussentino turn right and join SS 18; continuing on this road, exit at Poderia and from there proceed towards Palinuro on SR 562 which runs along the Mingardo river. At the Palinuro roundabout, take the right exit towards Pisciotta. After 5 km take the direction Pisciotta Marina. Alternatively, from the A3 Salerno – Reggio Calabria highway, exit at Battipaglia and continue on SS 18 and its variant towards Agropoli/Vallo della Lucania. Exit at Poderia and from there proceed towards Palinuro on SR 562 which runs along the Mingardo river. At the Palinuro roundabout, take the right exit towards Pisciotta. After 5 km take the direction Pisciotta Marina.

9 What to Eat in Pisciotta

The cuisine of Pisciotta is in perfect harmony with that of Cilento. The ingredients are the right combination of sea and land. Local dishes are flavored with extra virgin olive oil, which here is produced from the native Pisciotta olive. The Extra Virgin Olive Oil, to be good and genuine, should slightly sting. Another exclusive product of Pisciotta is the “Menaica anchovies” which owe their name to an ancient fishing technique introduced by the Greeks (a visit to nearby Velia is recommended), almost completely disappeared and which in Pisciotta is kept alive thanks to some local fishermen. If you love seafood and blue fish, don’t miss trying spaghetti with anchovy sauce which is not second to the more famous one from Cetara. The menaica anchovies and anchovy sauce can be purchased at various shops in the marina or the store in piazza Pinto. Also in Pisciotta, as in all of Cilento, there is mozzarella in myrtle (invented by shepherds of transhumance), a kind of stretched curd preserved in myrtle branches which also gives it a bit of characteristic flavor, in the form of a braid. The dining offer in Pisciotta and nearby is quite good. Restaurants in Pisciotta serve typical dishes and also the area’s agritourisms are of excellent quality, with organic and zero-kilometer products.

10 Where to Sleep in Pisciotta

The hotel offer in Pisciotta is of good quality. If you are looking for an authentic experience, I recommend staying in a B&B or at the Albergo diffuso La Casa sul Blu. Alternatively, for those who can afford it, the Hotel Marulivo, created from an ancient 14th century monastery, offers an exclusive experience with a terrace and sea-view rooms. Another option is agritourisms which, as with dining, offer good quality packages at reasonable prices.

Photo Gallery of Pisciotta