Pisciotta, the village suspended between water and land

When you arrive in Pisciotta it feels like you’ve just stepped into a black and white film, one of those Italian neorealist ones. The houses along the road cutting through the village, an old provincial road, are in perfect Cilentan style. There’s no mere urban planning care but authenticity, that there is no lack of. “Welcome to Pisciotta, the village suspended between water and land“, I would feel like reading. Instead, the sign at the beginning of the small center reminds me that we are in the land of oil, that made from the native olive that, in this part of the Cilentan coast, is called “pisciottana“. The inhabitants of Pisciotta, like all other Cilentans, for centuries have earned their living from shepherding. And the combination of shepherding and sea is still very strong in this land.

The Cilento

The province south of Salerno is almost entirely named Cilento, except for the Vallo di Diano to the east, towards Basilicata and the area of the Sele River. The coastal Cilento is not very different from the inland one. The whole Cilento was part of Ancient Lucania and today, despite centuries having passed and being in Campania, Lucanian influences remain deeply rooted in this area. The Cilentan dialect, after all, largely derives from Lucanian, an Oscan language. Customs and traditions also carry strong Lucanian influences.

Pisciotta is no exception. A symbol of the coastal Cilento, located in the National Park of Cilento and Vallo di Diano, the village has a roundish shape, about three kilometers from the marina, and is entirely surrounded by centuries-old olive trees. It has about 2600 inhabitants and in recent years has seen many foreign visitors, especially from Northern Europe and Australia.

10 Things to Do and See in Pisciotta, Cilento

1 The alleys and historic center of Pisciotta

The starting point to visit the village of Pisciotta is definitely “Largo Piazza” of “Piazza Raffaele Pinto“. If you arrive by car, look for parking nearby and continue on foot, winding through the labyrinth of alleys in the historic center. The village streets are very narrow, lined with old noble palaces, common houses, and some chapels like that of San Michele Arcangelo and Madonna della Mercede (fishermen would go there in thanksgiving), a clear sign of religious belonging. In Via Roma you can still find weathered signs reminding us of old shops and the village’s antique pharmacy. The historic center of Pisciotta clearly reflects its medieval position. Here the inhabitants took refuge to defend themselves from Saracen assaults whose raids plagued all the southern coasts of the Bel Paese.

2 The Marchesale Palace of Pisciotta

The Marchesale Palace of Pisciotta, belonging to the Pappacoda family, is located along the climb on Via Roma. The entrance to the eighteenth-century palace is preceded by a long narrow alley. Crossing the threshold of the large door, you are transported into an atrium with a wide visible staircase and large windows, all open in the shape of an arch, through which you can see ancient fig trees, wild plants, and the indispensable olive trees dotting a garden with a clear Cilentan character. The palace is partially inhabited and partially open to visitors.

3 Piazzetta del Cannone of Pisciotta

The narrow alleys of Pisciotta open onto picturesque squares overlooking ancient palaces and common houses. In the historic center, just leaving the main square “Raffaele Pinto“, also called “Largo Piazza“, you can rest from the climb by stopping at Piazzetta del Cannone, so named because there is an ancient cannon here. The square’s viewpoint acts as a large terrace with a view that stretches among the rooftops of the houses, the green of the olive trees, and, downhill, the view of the sea. On the wall bordering the access road, Via Roma, murals are displayed prominently that, between warning and storytelling, recount how brigands populated the modern history of the area, as in nearby Lucania and the rest of Campania.

4 Piazza Michelangelo Pagano in Pisciotta

At the end of Via Roma, towards the Chiesa Madre of Pisciotta, a square draws attention: Piazza Michelangelo Pagano. Between ancient palaces, such as Palazzo Francia and the north side of the mother church, the picturesque square appears halfway between a tavern with an open terrace and a movie set. Instead, it is none of these. The Pagano square of Pisciotta is a place where time stops and remains suspended between the wonder and beauty of a south, wild and authentic.

5 Mother Church Saint Peter and Paul

The mother church of Pisciotta is dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul. It overlooks Pagano square and has an unusual side entrance since the main entrance is used only for special events. The church has a single very large nave and dates back to the 17th century, although it has undergone several restorations. Inside there are some works of the Neapolitan school and clear Baroque references. Other churches in Pisciotta include the del Carmine which features an electric clock installed in the late 60s by a company from Potenza; the Church of the Assumption also called “of the Star” and the Santuario di Sant’Agnello Abate in nearby Rodio.

6 The cats of Pisciotta

In the alleys of the historic center of Pisciotta you will be pleasantly accompanied by the cats of Pisciotta. Males, females, of various colors, tabbies, kittens, in love, curious and wary, the cats of Pisciotta, which do not belong to any particular breed except street cats, although all have an owner, make the visit to the village even more authentic. Every alley offers a close encounter with a domestic feline and, on every corner, a cat disappears to make way for another from the neighborhood. A feline relay. And if you happen during mating season, you’ll be accompanied by the loud meows of males looking for females.

7 The port of Pisciotta and the Marina

About three kilometers from the town lies the Marina of Pisciotta and the small tourist port. The stretch of sea here, as throughout Cilento (from Agropoli to Sapri), is of suggestive beauty. Many Cilentan locations have been Blue Flag for years and Pisciotta is no exception, making environmental protection a true banner. The village school is indeed completely “plastic free” and other measures are taken to best protect this Cilentan gem. Like many southern coasts, here too there are watchtowers, some private and others accessible after a trekking path.

8 How to get to Pisciotta

Pisciotta is served by the State Railways station “Pisciotta-Palinuro” (Naples-Reggio Calabria line). The train ride from Naples takes about two hours, while from Rome it takes a little over three and a half hours. The nearest airport is Naples Capodichino, although, if operational, the Salerno Costa d’Amalfi airport would be the preferred airport. The alternative to the train is certainly by car—and this is the advice I would give you, besides by bike (for the sporty). Arriving in Pisciotta by car means taking a slow trip and immersing yourself in the beauty of the whole Cilento.

Some directions. From the north: from the A3 motorway Salerno – Reggio Calabria, exit at Buonabitacolo and continue on SS 517. Near Policastro Bussentino, turn right and merge onto SS 18; continuing on this road exit at Poderia and from there head towards Palinuro via SR 562 which runs along the Mingardo River. At the Palinuro roundabout, take the right exit towards Pisciotta. After 5 km, take the direction Pisciotta Marina. Alternatively, from the A3 motorway Salerno – Reggio Calabria, exit at Battipaglia and continue on SS 18 and its variant towards Agropoli/Vallo della Lucania. Exit at Poderia and from there proceed towards Palinuro on SR 562 which runs along the Mingardo River. At the Palinuro roundabout, take the right exit towards Pisciotta. After 5 km, take the direction Pisciotta Marina.

9 What to eat in Pisciotta

The cuisine of Pisciotta is in perfect harmony with Cilentan cooking. The ingredients strike the right balance between sea and land. Local dishes are flavored with extra virgin olive oil, made here from the native Pisciottana olive. Extra Virgin Olive Oil to be good and genuine should slightly sting. Another exclusive product of Pisciotta is the “Alici di Menaica” named after an ancient fishing technique introduced by the Greeks (a visit to nearby Velia is recommended), almost entirely lost but kept alive in Pisciotta thanks to some local fishermen. If you love seafood and small blue fish, do not miss trying spaghetti with anchovy sauce, which is not second to the more famous one from Cetara. The alici di menara and the anchovy sauce can be purchased in various outlets in the marina or the shop in Piazza Pinto. Also in Pisciotta, as in all of Cilento, you can find mozzarella in mortella (invented by shepherds during transhumance), a kind of stretched curd preserved in myrtle branches, which also give it its typical flavor, braided like a plait. The dining options in Pisciotta and surroundings are quite good. Pisciotta’s restaurants offer typical dishes, and the area’s agritourisms are of excellent quality, with organic and zero-km products.

10 Where to sleep in Pisciotta

The hotel offer in Pisciotta is of good quality. If you are looking for an authentic experience, I suggest staying at a B&B or at the Albergo diffuso La Casa sul Blu. Alternatively, for those who can afford it, the Hotel Marulivo, set in a fourteenth-century ancient monastery, offers an exclusive experience with terrace and sea-view rooms. Another option is the agritourisms which, as with restaurants, offer good value packages of good quality.

Photo gallery of Pisciotta