We arrived almost by chance, searching for places untouched by mass tourism—destinations where people are still genuine and nature is sovereign. That’s how we stumbled upon a magical island just over 25 kilometers long and up to 17.5 km wide, called Terceira, named as it was the third discovered in the archipelago in the 15th century. Once a stopover for galleons and ships trading between Europe and the Americas, Terceira still retains all the charm of a crossroads, with rhythms and lifestyles that have changed little over the last five centuries.
1 Terceira: The Coast
Terceira’s coastline, born of volcanoes, plunges dramatically into the ocean, but then surprises with natural pools created by long-ago lava flows. Biscoitos, Cinco Ribeiras, Quatro Ribeiras are just a few of the natural pools offering breathtaking views. Swimming in the cool ocean, surrounded by striking black lava formations, is an unforgettable experience. The wind is ever-present, sometimes fierce, at times gentle, ensuring a mild climate for swimming, hiking or excursions. Despite the island’s small size, on Terceira, you can combine a variety of holidays in one.
2 Terceira: The Summit
A mountain rising 1,032 meters dominates Terceira’s center—its peak offers views of neighboring islands: Faial, Pico, and Sao Jorge. As you climb, the landscape shifts dramatically: lush pastures with free-roaming cows and goats bordered by hydrangeas give way to an alpine scenery of cryptomeria trees, tree ferns, and the scents of resin and flowers.
3 Terceira: Untamed Nature
Pure nature is the greatest spectacle the Azores—and Terceira—have to offer. The Serreta area, on the island’s western side, is dense with verdant vegetation and an explosion of native trees and flowers. You’ll also meet plenty of cows, always grazing in the open—there are no barns here—and it’s fascinating to witness the milking and see elders riding horses or donkeys, transporting fresh milk in tin cans to the island’s dairy.
4 Terceira: The Furnas
Exploring Terceira, at times you’ll feel like you’re in the Alps—then suddenly you’re in Iceland, admiring geothermal wonders known as Furnas: steaming sulfur vents. Red, iron-rich earth contrasts with black lava, hydrangeas flourish along the roads, leading visitors along a magical journey.
5 Algar do Carvão
Given Terceira’s volcanic origins, a visit to Algar do Carvão—the volcano whose eruption created the island—is not to be missed. Descend into the verdant volcanic cone to a small lake where lava once surged. You’ll see lava flows etched into the rock, marks left by ancient explosions, and secondary cones—a unique spectacle.
6 Terceira: The Caves
Several other caves offer new perspectives on nature—not the usual limestone grottos, but lava tunnels and sulfate formations. Afterwards, wandering by foot through the woods and valleys of the island is a special experience.
7 Azores: Slow Travel
The Azores are best discovered at a gentle pace. We quickly learned this from Fatima and Jean-Claude: take your time, explore one island at a time, and soak in the atmosphere, scents, colors, and natural beauty. Although each island is small—apart from San Miguel—they’re all distinct, filled with enchanting hidden corners to discover as you get lost on gravel roads. Lovers of dolphins and whales will be thrilled: the Azores are also ideal for sea excursions to spot cetaceans and dolphins up close. We were lucky enough to be accompanied by a group of dolphins the entire trip, leaping and playing alongside our boat.
