In 2006, UNESCO awarded the title of World Heritage to a large part of the historic center of the Ligurian capital, Genoa, specifically the Strade Nuove and about a quarter of the noble palaces that were part of the Rolli system. Their history takes us back to the golden age of the Maritime Republic of Genoa.
Republic of Genoa under Andrea Doria
The city of Genoa became autonomous from the Holy Roman Empire starting in 1096, establishing itself as a free commune. After various political upheavals, which also cost it control over some strategic territories and even its independence (it had come under French control), in 1528, under the leadership of Admiral Andrea Doria, the city allied with Emperor Charles V.
This move allowed Genoa to regain its independence, becoming a kind of associate of the Spanish empire. The city’s contribution to Charles V was mainly financial: Genoese banks provided loans supporting Spain’s war and colonial enterprises, earning enormous profits.
Thus, strengthened by new wealth, between the late 16th and early 17th centuries, the city adapted its appearance to its new role as a leading political actor in Europe. The Strade Nuove were designed, along which the aristocratic residences of the most illustrious families of shipowners, bankers, and merchants were built: Doria, Spinola, Grimaldi, Lomellini, and Balbi, just to name the best known.
The Strade Nuove
The Strade Nuove in Genoa are today’s via Garibaldi (former Strada Nuova or Via Aurea), via Cairoli (formerly Strada Nuovissima), via Bensa, and via Balbi. The concept that guided their construction, simple as it was, was hugely innovative at the time and later served as an example for the urban development of other European cities: aristocratic families wanted to move their residences outside medieval quarters and concentrate them in an area where they would not be in close contact with the lower classes of the population.
The first streets to be constructed were via Garibaldi (initiated by the Grimaldi family) and via Balbi, mostly occupied by residences of the homonymous family. Via Cairoli dates from the second half of the 18th century and was created as a connection between the other two streets.
On via Garibaldi, building such a complex of palaces on the rocky coast above the port required significant construction and structural solutions, used here for the first time.
The fame of the Strade Nuove also attracted Rubens, who published the collection of drawings “Palazzi di Genova” to serve as an example for the European aristocracy.
The Palazzi dei Rolli in Genoa
Due to its primary political and economic role, during its golden age Genoa often had to welcome and host sovereigns, ambassadors, and high ecclesiastics visiting officially. Thus, the Rolli system was established, whereby the most prominent families, selected by lottery, were obliged to host visitors in their homes.
Periodically, a list of aristocratic residences was drawn up, called the Rolli of public lodgings. There are five lists, dated between 1576 and 1664, preserved at the State Archives of Genoa (a historic building from the 16th-18th centuries, originally a 16th-century villa with frescoed rooms and halls, purchased by the Jesuits in the 1600s as their Novitiate). Each residence, based on prestige and size, was assigned to one of three or four categories in the list. Depending on the importance of the guests, the matching category was chosen, and the home names were placed in a lottery box for the draw.
Only three palaces had the privilege to host “Pope, Emperor, king and legate, Cardinals or other Princes”: the residence of Giò Batta D’Oria, Palazzo Doria Tursi of Nicolò Grimaldi, and Palazzo Lercari Parodi.
The Rolli palaces share a similar structure. Inside, the visual impact is created by a succession of entrance hall, courtyard, grand staircase, and garden. The rooms are often embellished with paintings and sculptures by the most eminent artists of Genoese Mannerism and Baroque.
A total of 163 palaces were listed in the Rolli at least once, but only 42 are part of the UNESCO World Heritage. They are mainly concentrated in via Garibaldi, nearby Salita Santa Caterina, Piazza Fontane Marose, and via Lomellini and in via Balbi.
Among those not selected by UNESCO are noteworthy ones like Palazzo Domenico Grillo, in piazza delle Vigne 4, Palazzo Bartolomeo Invrea in via del Campo 12, and Palazzo Spinola Franzone in via Luccoli 23.
How to Visit the Rolli
Almost all the Rolli palaces today are private residences or offices of banks, companies, or public entities. Twice a year on weekends, in April and October, the Rolli Days take place, during which all the palaces open to the public and can be visited with guides who are students and researchers from the University of Genoa.
During the year, some Rolli palaces transformed into museums can be visited. The Musei di Strada Nuova are housed in the Palazzi Rosso, Bianco, and Doria Tursi, on via Garibaldi between numbers 9 and 18.
In the Palazzo Rosso, collections belonging to the Brignole-Sale family are preserved, partly displayed in rooms retaining their original decorations and furnishings.
In Palazzo Bianco, you can admire Genoese paintings as well as Italian masterpieces (Caravaggio, Lippi, Veronese), Flemish (Rubens, Van Dyck), and Spanish.
Palazzo Doria Tursi, the most imposing on the street, hosts the last part of the museum route, featuring Genoese painting of the 17th and 18th centuries and the Paganiniana Hall which holds some relics belonging to the artist, including the famous violin known as Il Cannone.
The Palazzo Stefano Balbi, at via Balbi 10, is also known as Palazzo Reale because, after the annexation of the Republic of Genoa to the Kingdom of Sardinia, it was acquired by the Savoy family and used as their official summer residence. Today it houses a museum of decorative arts, with more than two hundred valuable paintings, sculptures, and, of course, the frescoes and furnishings of the residence.
