We are in Pietrasanta, a charming town at the foot of the Apuan Alps, just steps from the golden beaches of Versilia, where for decades artists and visitors from all over the world have gathered, attracted by the skill of its marble, bronze, and mosaic craftsmen; by the exhibitions, prestigious cultural events, and, more generally, by the atmosphere and its art of living well.
It is very pleasant to stroll through that grand rectangle that is Piazza del Duomo, where the oldest monuments face, blended with masterpieces of modern art. Every year, Pietrasanta dedicates a major exhibition to a contemporary artist, whose works are placed in the square and the nearby Church of Sant’Agostino, viewed and touched by locals and tourists, or admired while comfortably seated at outdoor café tables, under the shade of sixteenth-century tombstones, which tell of the contracts Michelangelo made on site to procure marbles for his masterpieces. The lifeblood of this city lies precisely in the strong, extraordinary intertwining of ancient art and modern creativity.
Entering the 14th-century Duomo di San Martino, one is enveloped in harmonious solemnity. The gaze rests on the magnificent sixteenth-century holy water fonts by the sculptor Stagio Stagi and on the splendid marble pulpit (1504 AD), whose craftsmanship makes it resemble a precious chalice. A stone’s throw away is the Sant’Agostino Complex, with the 14th-century church, home to important exhibitions, and the Renaissance former convent, which houses the Museo dei Bozzetti, with over six hundred plaster models of sculptures by famous artists: César, Nivola, Botero, Finotti, Yasuda, Mitoraj, De Saint Phalle, and many others.
But in Pietrasanta, masterpieces are everywhere, forming an open-air gallery, just waiting for those who want to stroll and scour every corner. A short walk from Piazza del Duomo, passing through the Porta a Pisa, the ethereal Dream Key by Kan Yasuda emerges on the railway station square, in pure Carrara marble. Walking along Via Mazzini, a temple of promenading and elegant shopping, you arrive at Piazza Matteotti, where the massive bronze Warrior by Fernando Botero and the Memories of Pietrasanta in white marble by Pietro Cascella stand out. Back on Via Mazzini, it’s worth stopping at the little Church of Sant’Antonio and San Biagio, also called the Church of Mercy, Pietrasanta’s oldest (its origins date back to the 13th century AD), where two large Botero frescoes nestle: The Gate of Paradise and The Gate of Hell, yet another tribute from the artist to the city where he spends long periods of the year.
Northeast of the Duomo, Via Garibaldi opens up, full of art galleries, antique shops, and featuring the statue of the Boxer by Francesco Messina. And Via Sant’Agostino, along which you pass behind the dynamic Centaur by Igor Mitoraj, another artist who has adopted Pietrasanta. A not-to-be-missed stop at the end of the street is the Studio Sem, one of the most famous and respected artistic studios in Versilia, which has collaborated with artists like Moore, César, Miró, and where sculptors from all over the world come to learn the secrets of marble working and create works that will enrich public spaces, museums, and private collections.
The welcome beaches of Marina are just 3 km away, and even here, along the seaside avenues or in the beautiful Versiliana Park, it is common to find sculptures with surprising shapes. Behind the waterfront rise the Apuan Alps, with the fascinating world of marble quarries. Reaching those of Monte Altissimo, at an altitude of 1589 meters, Michelangelo’s favorites, is not difficult. Just follow, from Pietrasanta, the state road to Seravezza, which climbs through wooded hills. Bend after bend, a terraced gash in the mountain womb becomes increasingly visible: it is the Cava delle Cervaiole, from where the finest marble blocks are extracted that, thanks to the artist’s genius and the craftsman’s work, will become unique and prestigious works of art.
