We are in Pietrasanta, a delightful town at the foot of the Apuan Alps, just a stone’s throw from the golden beaches of Versilia, where for decades artists and visitors from all over the world have gathered, attracted by the skill of its marble, bronze, and mosaic artisans; the exhibitions, prestigious cultural events, and, more generally, the atmosphere and its art of good living.
It is very pleasant to stroll through that grand rectangle that is Piazza del Duomo, on which the oldest monuments overlook, mixed with masterpieces of modern art. Every year, Pietrasanta dedicates a major exhibition to a contemporary artist, whose works are placed in the square and in the nearby Church of Sant’Agostino, seen and touched by citizens and tourists, or admired while comfortably seated at the outdoor tables of cafés, in the shade of the sixteenth-century tombstones, which tell of the contracts that Michelangelo signed on site, to procure the marbles for his masterpieces. The lifeblood of this city lies precisely in the strong, extraordinary intertwining between ancient art and modern creativity.
Entering the thirteenth-century Duomo di San Martino, one is enveloped by harmonious solemnity. The gaze rests on the magnificent sixteenth-century holy water fonts by the sculptor Stagio Stagi and on the splendid marble pulpit (1504 AD), whose craftsmanship makes it resemble a precious chalice. A stone’s throw away is the Sant’Agostino Complex, with the thirteenth-century church, venue for important exhibitions, and the former Renaissance convent, which houses the Museum of Sketches, with over six hundred plaster models of sculptures by famous artists: César, Nivola, Botero, Finotti, Yasuda, Mitoraj, De Saint Phalle, and many others.
But in Pietrasanta masterpieces are found everywhere, marking an open-air gallery, you just have to be willing to stroll and scour every corner. Near Piazza del Duomo, beyond the Porta a Pisa, there emerges, on the railway station square, an ethereal Dream Key by Kan Yasuda, in pure Carrara marble. Walking along via Mazzini, a temple of promenade and elegant shopping, one arrives at Piazza Matteotti, where the massive bronze Warrior by Fernando Botero and the Memories of Pietrasanta in white marble by Pietro Cascella stand out. Returning to via Mazzini, it is worth stopping at the Chapel of Sant’Antonio and San Biagio, also known as the Chapel of Mercy, the oldest in Pietrasanta (its origins date back to the 13th century AD), where two large frescoes by Botero nestle: The Gate of Paradise and The Gate of Hell, yet another homage by the artist to the city where he spends long periods of the year.
Northeast of the Duomo, via Garibaldi opens, full of art galleries, antique shops, and the statue of the Boxer by Francesco Messina. And via Sant’Agostino, along which you pass behind the rampaging Centaur by Igor Mitoraj, another artist adopted by Pietrasanta. A must-visit stop at the end of the road is the Sem Studio, one of the most renowned and highly rated artistic workshops in Versilia, which has collaborated with artists such as Moore, César, Mirò, and where sculptors come from all over the world to learn the secrets of marble working and create works that will enrich public spaces, museums, and private collections.
The warm beaches of Marina are only 3 km away, and here too, along the seaside promenades or in the beautiful Versiliana Park, it is common to find sculptures with surprising shapes. Behind the seaside promenade rise the Apuan Alps, with the fascinating world of marble quarries. It is not difficult to reach those of Monte Altissimo, at an altitude of 1589 meters, Michelangelo’s favorite. Just take the state road from Pietrasanta to Seravezza, which climbs through wooded hills. Bend after bend, a stepped cleft becomes increasingly visible in the mountain’s bosom: it is the Cervaiole Quarry, from which the finest marble blocks are extracted, which, thanks to the artist’s genius and the artisan’s work, will become unique and prestigious works of art.
