Bomarzo, Park of Monsters: the history
We are in Bomarzo, right in Etruscan territory. From the small town perched on the hill, one can oversee the entire green valley crossed by the meanders of the Tiber River. In the 15th century, the Orsini princes established their residence here, and towards the mid-sixteenth century, one of them, the scholar and brave man of war Vicino Orsini, wanted to create at the foot of the hill, a grand and unique monumental park. To model the sculptures, the Prince used the stone abundant in the area: a light gray tuff, with a characteristic black speckling similar to pepper grains: the “peperino”.
The volcanic origin of this material evidently fit well with what the eccentric Prince had in mind: the creation of gigantic and fantastic statues, carved directly from the large blocks of “peperino” scattered on the ground. Why Prince Orsini wanted to create this complex “scenic machine” is unknown; perhaps the work was part of the vast phenomenon that was one of the features of the sixteenth century, the Kunst- und Wunderkammer, when the collection and collecting of rarities, curiosities, singular and extravagant things spread in the princely courts of half of Europe, as a symbol of vanitas. The Park of Monsters, however, was a special Wunderkammer, because it was outdoors and immersed in greenery, and this was something rather unique.
Whatever the reason for its institution, today the Park of Monsters in Bomarzo is certainly one of the most fascinating places in central Italy: a true “Baroque Sacred Grove“. An open-air art gallery, with sculptures made by the hands of unknown artists. Indeed, there are many legends told about who contributed to the creation of this mysterious and unusual park. It seems that its eccentric creator, the Prince Orsini, during a battle near Vienna, captured Turkish prisoners, brought them to Bomarzo, and here ordered them to carve the statues. This could explain the clumsy and artisanal execution of the works; the sculptures are indeed little refined, but certainly the figures of these monstrous animals and these fantastic and grotesque giants do not fail to enchant adults and intimidate children.
A truly unique character, this Vicino Orsini who was able to blend together various symbolisms and many allegorical figures, achieving an elegant mélange of different cultures and eras. Bears in medieval symbolism represented the conversion of pagans to Catholicism, and the goddess Fortuna was, according to Horace, the lady of the sea; although in the Renaissance Fortuna was the goddess resurrected from Antiquity who unpredictably distributed her favors. The monsters, moreover, were typical elements of Greek mythology and Jewish apocalyptic literature, while dragons, in Christian culture, were the representation of Satan. Surely this grand monumental complex, which perhaps is the symbol of an instinctive human defense against the unknown, is one of the most bizarre and fantastic works of the Italian sixteenth century.
Bomarzo, Monster Park: the gardens
The feeling experienced in the gardens of the Monster Park of Bomarzo is one of “bold caution,” perhaps the name unconsciously intimidates us. At the entrance, we are greeted by two stone Sphinxes that seem to guard a huge Hercules intent on dismembering Cacus, the Roman god son of Vulcan who spits fire and is giant-sized; a slight shiver runs down our spine but we prefer to attribute it to the coolness of the beautiful gardens, and we continue to venture into the park with greater curiosity.
Slanting fountains and heads of infernal Monsters, a gigantic Turtle topped by the statue of Fortune, a Dragon attacked by lions and dogs, a Mascherone with the features of an ogre with its mouth wide open containing a stone table and chairs. Before all these figures our imagination runs wild, and we establish that Prince Orsini must have been a truly special character. We still encounter sea Monsters emerging from the rocks, winged Sirens and Lions, an Elephant that seems to crush a warrior with its trunk, a leaning House that seems to sink into its own foundations. We enter the house and our head spins, we have the sensation of losing balance and everything becomes unstable. We run out of that enigmatic structure and continue to the Xisto, the large square with a viewpoint. The square is furnished with huge vases, pine cones and decorative acorns, and at the bottom, almost concluding the area, there is a series of heraldic Bears holding a rose: it is the emblem of the house of the Orsini princes. As we walk, we see inscriptions and verses engraved almost everywhere on the rocks, accompanying us along the paths, as if to remind us that the place was designed to give space to reflection and meditation.
At the end of the long route of the Monster Park of Bomarzo, at the highest part of this “enchanted garden” which develops along a terrace itinerary, there is a small domed Temple: some claim that Prince Vicino Orsini had it erected in memory of his wife Giulia Farnese, who died prematurely. Finally, we exit the Monster Park and it is as if we wake up from a dream; the pleasant feeling left is that of having contributed to the amusement of a character who has been playing with all his guests for 5 centuries.
