Founded on the extreme western tip of the eponymous lake, at the exact point where the Reuss river plunges into it, overseen by the imposing silhouette of Mount Pilatus, Lucerne has always enjoyed a more than privileged position, close to important centers, along strategic routes towards Bern and the Oberland, to Zurich, the Rhine Valley, Grisons, and that formidable transit route that is the Saint Gotthard.
It is a city full of charm that has massively bet on tourism for decades, encouraging the exit of industries and factories from the urban fabric and a very high concentration of services. The continuous comings and goings of strolls along the lakeshore, called quai here, make it lively but not chaotic, and its pleasant puzzle of architectural styles sparks curiosity step by step, neighborhood by neighborhood. Added to this are the grandeur of the covered wooden bridges and the poignant charm of the arcades over the water, silent and motionless witnesses to the passage of centuries. A convenient spot to leave cars and dive on foot into the city’s beauties is the station, served by numerous parking lots, or Haldenstrasse. From here it is worth aiming for the Kappellbruke, the magnificent 14th-century wooden covered bridge, symbol of the old town. It was part, together with the walls, of the powerful urban defensive system and has a curious oblique position compared to the course of the Reuss. About halfway along stands the picturesque Wasserturm, the Water Tower, once prison, archive, and treasury. Walking it to the end, listening to the sound of your steps on the wood and admiring the over one hundred painted panels in the attic, which depict the history of Lucerne and its patron saints, is always quite an experience.
On the eastern side of the bridge opens one of the city’s most elegant districts: Rathausquai, announced by Schwanenplatz, the swans’ square lined with clockmakers, jewelers, fashion shops and with a former historic hotel, the Schwanen, now only a restaurant. From the square, you can reach two other symbolic monuments: the Fritschi Fountain, the very popular character inspiring the carnival, and the St. Peter Church, the oldest church, founded in 1178 and subsequently heavily renovated. Also not to be missed is the Kornmarkt, the old grain market, dominated by the 17th-century building of the ancient town hall; the Weinmarkt, the wine market square, the medieval heart of Lucerne, with dollhouses facing it, with frescoed facades and from where narrow and intriguing alleys depart; the Muhlenplatz, the mill square, surrounded by 18th-century buildings and the nearby 15th-century wooden covered bridge, with the painting of the Danse Macabre in the attic, and the side panels depicting the professions of nobles and commoners. Art lovers should not miss a visit to the Picasso Museum, housed in an elegant 17th-century palace at No.21 Furengasse, the Kunstmuseum, entirely dedicated to Swiss and Lucerne art, and housed in the Palace of Arts and Congresses. Or the famous Transport Museum, the largest of its kind in Europe, offering a fascinating journey through the history of locomotion and communications.
