Quando si parla del “Pollino” e del suo “Parco Nazionale“, l’immaginario si arricchisce di paesaggi naturalistici. Un’associazione assolutamente corretta anche se, incompleta. Storia, cultura, tradizioni, completano il quadro di quest’oasi, tanto bella, quanto inesplorata. Vediamo cosa vedere nel Parco del Pollino, gli itinerari e i percorsi per le escursioni.
Pollino Park what to see
The Pollino National Park stretches across the borders between Basilicata, the ancient Lucania, and Calabria. It comprises a mountain massif that extends from the Tyrrhenian Sea to the Ionian, covering about two hundred thousand hectares. On the Lucanian side, the destination of our journey, the mountains have an altitude ranging between one thousand and two thousand meters.
The Loricate Pine
This is the kingdom of the “Loricate Pine“, symbol of the Park. The literal translation of its scientific name is “White Skin” from the color the dry trunk takes on when it loses its bark. The loricate pine is a floral specimen that, in Italy, is found only in this area. In particular, it is rooted between Monte Alpi and Serra la Spina. It grows where vegetation is hindered by climatic conditions and lives a long time, even a thousand years. For this reason, it has strange shapes with branches like bulwarks to withstand wind gusts.
Pollino Park: excursions
Excursions in the Pollino are now popular destinations among nature tourists. Not only that. Hiking and horseback riding are possible. Given the vastness of the park, it is advisable to start from one of the small centers in the area.
Rotonda
Rotonda (mt. 580- pop. 4011) is one of the most interesting on the Lucanian side. In this town, once dominated by the Lombards and Normans, the historic center is rich in stone-carved portals. An elderly man recounts that once, in these little streets, you could daily hear the rhythmic tapping of the local stonemasons. They were renowned. Today these artisans are disappearing. Emigration in the early part of the century, changed urban needs have partly contributed.
In Rotonda, every year on June 13th, on the occasion of the feast of Saint Anthony, the “Fir Festival” takes place. A large beech tree is cut down and transported, along with other small trunks, by oxen. It is then raised in the village square. In this place, as in other centers of the Pollino, there is more than one “tourist guide.”
The Madonna of Pollino
Let’s start. Traveling on provincial road no. 28, we reach the Convent dedicated to Saint Mary. In these areas Marian devotion is very strong. In particular, tradition and faith mix for the feast of the Madonna of Mount Pollino, not far from here, reachable from San Severino Lucano. On the first weekend of July, the pilgrimage takes place towards the Mountain where the Madonna‘s sanctuary is located (mt. 1646). The path used by pilgrims is initially paved then increasingly difficult and unpaved.
Pollino Park: the refuges
Returning to our excursion destination which, from the Impiso hill reaches the Great Gate of Pollino, just after the Convent of Saint Mary, we continue towards the “Fasanelli Refuge” via the municipal road. The time for a short break then we leave again towards the “Colle Ruggio Refuge“, located at 1520 meters above sea level.
We continue climbing and, 1500 meters away, we find the “De Gasperi Refuge” (mt. 1550). We are in the “Piano Ruggio” known for the rich and colorful blooms in late spring. In winter it is possible to do cross-country skiing.
We continue for a few more kilometers, towards Viggianello (mt. 500-pop. 4041) to reach Colle d’Impiso (1570 mt.). At this point we continue on foot to reach the Great Gate of Pollino. We follow an unpaved road then go along the Frido stream, in a place called “Piano di Vaquarro“. After a long stretch, through paths and trails, we arrive near the spring “Spezzavummolo“. We are near the “Gaudolino Pass“, between “Monte Pollino” and the “Serra del Prete“.
Great Gate of Pollino
We cross the stream to the left, to climb towards the “Pollino Plains“, where wide meadows are found. All around an enchanting landscape: Serra di Crispo, Serra delle Ciavole, Serra Dolcedorme and Monte Pollino. After another climb, we reach an altitude of 1950 meters, at the “Great Gate of Pollino“. A Bristlecone pine appears before our eyes.
We are in the heart of the Pollino, in its kingdom. Before us lie fields in bloom, grazing cows, imperial crows, in a charming setting. Various animal species coexist in the park. Wild boars, otters, martens, hares. We are told the Apennine wolf still lives here, well protected because it is endangered. Looking around, we see that the pines are now numerous, all clinging to the bare rock. Some show the whiteness of the trunk, others younger, the characteristic bark with large plates.
We are between Serra delle Ciavole and Serra Crispo. We decide to climb higher. From their summits, it is possible to admire an immensely beautiful landscape. It’s an ideal day. We glimpse the sea in the distance. It feels like being on the roof of the world, from which we are forced to descend.
The next day, we are informed of other excursions. All require a few hours of walking. You can choose to go on horseback, but it is advisable to be guided by an expert guide. It is difficult to define Pollino Park. The largest in Italy by area, it is a collection of mountains, plains, cliffs, glacial cirques, gorges, caves, woods, beech forests, springs, refuge of wildlife, habitat for particular floral species, villages, sanctuaries, convents, castles, tradition, ethnic minorities, customs and history. Pollino is this and much more.
