Strade Nuove and the Palazzi dei Rolli in Genoa, Unesco guide

Discovering aristocratic Genoa which, in its moment of greatest splendor, hosted kings, ambassadors, popes and high prelates in its most prestigious private residences: the Strade Nuove and the Palazzi dei Rolli, a UNESCO heritage site.

The internal courtyard of Palazzo Doria Tursi, Genoa – Photo Maurizio Beatrici
The internal courtyard of Palazzo Doria Tursi, Genoa – Photo Maurizio Beatrici

In 2006 l 'UNESCO has been awarded the title of World Heritage Site a large part of the historic center of the capital of Liguria, GenoVa, more precisely the New Roads and about a quarter of the noble palaces that were part of the Rolli system. Their story takes us back to the period of greatest splendor of Maritime Republic of Genoa.

Republic of Genoa under Andrea Doria

The city of Genoa became autonomous from Holy Roman Empire starting from 1096, establishing itself as a free municipality. After various political ordeals, which also cost it the loss of control of some strategic territories and independence itself (it had passed under the control of the French), in 1528, under the leadership of the admiral Andrea Doria, the city allied itself with the emperor Charles V.

This move allowed Genoa to regain its independence by becoming a sort of associate of the Spanish empire. The city's contribution to Charles V it was above all financial: the Genoese banks provided loans to support the war and colonial enterprises of the Spain making huge profits.

Thus, strengthened by its new riches, between the end of the XNUMXth and the beginning of the XNUMXth century, the city adapted its appearance to its new role as a leading political interlocutor in Europe. Thus the Strade Nuove were designed, along which the aristocratic residences of the most illustrious families of shipowners, bankers and traders arose: Doria, Spinola, Grimaldi, Lomellini and Balbi, just to mention the most well-known.

The Rolli lists, Genoa - photo Superchilum
The Rolli lists, Genoa – photo Superchilum

The New Roads

Le New Roads in Genoa I am the current one Garibaldi Street (formerly Strada Nuova or Via Aurea), via Cairoli (formerly Strada Nuovissima), Bensa Street e via Balbi. The concept that guided their construction, however simple, was enormously innovative at the time and will also be an example for the urban development of other European cities: the aristocratic families wanted to move their residences out of the medieval neighborhoods and concentrate them in a area where they were not in close contact even with those of the lower classes of the population.

The first streets to be built were via Garibaldi (at the instigation of the Grimaldi family) and via Balbi, mainly occupied by the residences of the family of the same name. Via Cairoli, however, dates back to the second half of the eighteenth century and was created as a connection between the other two streets.

In via Garibaldi the construction of such a complex of buildings on the rocky coast above the port required considerable construction and structural solutions, used here for the first time.

The fame of the Strade Nuove also attracted Rubens who published the collection of drawings “Palaces of Genoa” so that it would serve as an example for the European aristocracy.

Palazzo Durazzo Pallavicini, Genoa – Photo Carlo Dell'Orto
Palazzo Durazzo Pallavicini, Genoa – Photo Carlo Dell'Orto

The Palazzi dei Rolli in Genoa

Due to its political and economic role of primary importance, in its golden period Genoa often found itself having to welcome and host sovereigns, ambassadors and high ecclesiastics who went there on official visits. Thus was created the Rolli system, by virtue of which the most eminent families, based on an extraction, were obliged to host visitors in their homes.

A list of aristocratic residences was periodically drawn up, called the Rolli of public housing. There are five of them, dated between 1576 and 1664 and preserved inState Archives of Genoa (historic building from the 600th-XNUMXth centuries, whose original nucleus is a XNUMXth-century villa, with frescoed rooms and halls, purchased by the Jesuits in the XNUMXth century to make it their Novitiate.) Each house, based on its prestige and size, was registered in one of the three or four categories into which the list was divided. Thus, based on the importance of the guests, it was decided which category was most suitable and, having placed the names of the homes in a compass, we proceeded with the extraction.

Only three buildings had the privilege of being able to host “Pope, Emperor, king and legate, Cardinals or other Prince”: the home of Giò Batta D'Oria, Palazzo Doria Tursi by Nicolò Grimaldi and Palazzo Lercari Parodi.

The internal courtyard of Palazzo Giacomo Lomellini, Genoa – Photo Superchilum
The internal courtyard of Palazzo Giacomo Lomellini, Genoa – Photo Superchilum

The structure of the Rolli palaces is quite similar. Inside, the visual impact is created by the succession of atrium, courtyard, grand staircase and garden. The rooms are often embellished with pictorial and sculptural works by the most eminent artists of Mannerism and Genoese Baroque.

The buildings that have been registered with the Rolli at least once are 163 in total, but only 42 are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites. They are concentrated especially in vto Garibaldi, in the neighbourhoods Salita Santa Caterina, Piazza Fontane Marose and via Lomellini and via Balbi.

Among those not chosen by UNESCO, however, notable ones are Palazzo Domenico Grilloin piazza delle Vigne 4, Palazzo Bartolomeo Invrea in via del Campo 12 e Spinola Franzone Palace in street Luccoli 23.

Counterfaçade of the Royal Palace – Photo by SalikoCounterfaçade of the Royal Palace – Photo by Saliko

How to visit the Rolli

Almost all of the Palazzo dei Rolli are today private residences or headquarters of banks, companies or public bodies. On two weekends a year, in April and October, there are Rolli Days, during which all the buildings are open to the public and it is possible to visit them with the guidance of students and researchers from the University of Genoa.

During the year you can visit some Rolli which have now been transformed into museums. THE Strada Nuova museums are hosted in Palazzo Rosso, Bianco and Doria Tursi, in via Garibaldi between house numbers 9 and 18.

In Red Palace the collections belonging to the family are preserved Brignole-Sale, partly housed in rooms that retain the original decorations and furnishings.

Living room of the Homeland Virtues in the Palazzo Rosso, Genoa – Photo Alessandro
Living room of the Homeland Virtues in the Palazzo Rosso, Genoa – Photo Alessandro

In White Palace it is possible to admire works of Genoese painting, but also Italian (Caravaggio, Lippi, Veronese), Flemish (Rubens, Van Dyck) and Spanish masterpieces.

Palazzo Doria Tursi, the most impressive on the street, hosts the last part of the museum itinerary, with Genoese painting from the XNUMXth and XNUMXth centuries and the Paganinian Hall which preserves some memorabilia belonging to the artist, including the famous violin known as The Cannon.

Il Palazzo Stefano Balbi, in via Balbi 10, is also known as Royal Palace since, with the annexation of the Republic of Genoa al Kingdom of Sardinia, was acquired by Savoy and used as an official residence in the summer months. Today it houses a museum of decorative arts, with over two hundred paintings of great value, sculptures and, of course, the frescoes and furnishings of the residence.

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