Itinerary among the treasures of the Val d'Orcia, a UNESCO heritage site

There are many ways to explore the picturesque Tuscan valley: with slow tourism, in search of small and large artistic treasures kept in its villages or with food and wine. In any case, one can be sure that the Val d'Orcia will be a source of inspiration, because it has always been like this, from the Renaissance to the present day.

Suggestive landscape of the Val d'Orcia
Suggestive landscape of the Val d'Orcia

Val d'Orcia is a Tuscan territory, in the province of Siena. Its views are characterized by conical hills embellished with cypress trees, on the top of which there is often a fortified village. Today's Val d'Orcia is like a photograph of the ideal Renaissance rural landscape: for this reason it was registered in 2004 byUNESCO on the list of World Heritage Sites.

The Renaissance landscape of the Val d'Orcia

The transformation of the Val d'Orcia territory began in the XNUMXth century. From that moment, local merchants and bankers invested in the agricultural development of the area, so that it became productive and created wealth. The change occurred according to a typically Renaissance mentality, that is, with the very rational objective of profitability, but without neglecting aesthetics.

It was the local entrepreneurs themselves who promoted the creation of the villages, fortresses and monasteries that still picturesquely dot the territory today. They also commissioned numerous paintings from artists of the Sienese school who celebrated the image of the region, showing the complete realization of Renaissance utopias on ideal places. Thus the Val d'Orcia became the example for other intellectuals, artists and politicians of the era of good governance of the landscape, where man lives productively in harmony with nature.

After the Renaissance there was a gradual decline in the economic importance of the area. This has meant that the Val d'Orcia has never experienced enormous agricultural or industrial development, leaving the landscape substantially unchanged compared to the XNUMXth-XNUMXth century. With the awareness of this richness came protections, first with the creation of the Val d'Orcia Protected Natural Area of ​​Local Interest, up to the definitive one from UNESCO.

Abbey of Sant'Antimo near Montalcino – Photo by Dongio
Abbey of Sant'Antimo near Montalcino – Photo by Dongio

Slow tourism in Val d'Orcia

One of the most fascinating ways to discover Val d'Orcia is with slow tourism. Cycling, walking, or steam train routes offer the chance to experience the beautiful landscape in an authentic way.

The Eroica takes place in Val d'Orcia, the non-competitive cycling event that recalls the cycling of the past. The Eroica is a cult event for lovers of vintage cycling and it is very difficult to participate because places are booked in record time by enthusiasts from all over the world. However, during the year its dirt paths remain open and can be explored by bicycle or motorbike.

Signage along the Via Francigena – Photo by JP Lon
Signage along the Via Francigena – Photo by JP Lon

Passes through the Val d'Orcia Via Francigena, the ancient path that since the Middle Ages has connected the two most important pilgrimage destinations in Europe: Rome and Canterbury. Siena was located along the route and this favored its urban and demographic development during the Late Middle Ages. From Siena the road arrives at San Quirico d'Orcia and from here it crosses the Val d'Orcia, until reaching Acquapendente, where the path connects to the Via Cassia. Traveling along the Via Francigena is not only a hiking experience, but also a spiritual one: along the road you come across monasteries, country churches and altars which, over the centuries, have accompanied and guided pilgrims.

Another alternative way to enjoy the magnificent landscape of the Val d'Orcia is with the historic Asciano-Monte Antico railway. This route, opened between 1865 and 1872, was abandoned after the Second World War only to be rediscovered and enhanced by the Ferrovie dello Stato Foundation in recent times. Its 51 km, traveled without haste by steam trains, allow you to discover snippets of landscape that would otherwise be unattainable.

The villages of the Val d'Orcia

The Val d'Orcia is a territory belonging to five municipalities: Pienza, Montalcino, San Quirico d'Orcia, Radicofani and Castiglione d'Orcia. These are small towns perched on panoramic hills, from which it is possible to admire the beautiful landscape. Exploring the streets of these villages, to discover the countless art treasures they contain, is a real invitation to beauty.

Pienza is itself a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its urban layout was commissioned by Pope Pius II, hence the name, a Bernardo Rossellino, architect follower of Leon Battista Alberti. Therefore it was designed according to the criteria of the ideal Renaissance city, of which Alberti was the main theoretician. A curiosity: in the municipal area of ​​Pienza there is the Quercia delle Checche, a 300-year-old monumental tree, the first to have received recognition as a green monument in Italy by the MIBACT.

Montalcino, a city known for the production of the famous Brunello wine, is entirely surrounded by walls which culminate in the perfection of its medieval fortress which is also the scene of the annual Jazz and Wine Festival. It is halfway between these two locations San Quirico d'Orcia, a village that rises next to the Via Francigena. At its entrance there is a beautiful avenue of cypress trees, one of the most iconic places in this area.

Radicofani is also crossed by the Via Francigena and is dominated by an imposing fortress, visible from kilometers away. In the Romanesque church of San Pietro it is possible to admire a rich collection of artistic terracottas by Andrea Della Robbia. TO Castiglione d'OrciaInstead, the characteristic Palio del Boscaiolo takes place, in which the representatives of this traditional profession compete in woodcutting skill competitions. Finally, small villages such as Contignano, Bagno Vignoni, Campiglia d'Orcia, Monticchiello and Bagni San Filippo which, administratively, are fractions of these municipalities.

Panorama of Pienza – Photo by Yanivba
Panorama of Pienza – Photo by Yanivba

The Val d'Orcia is a source of inspiration

The landscape of the Val d'Orcia, with its nature and its picturesque villages, has been a source of inspiration for centuries, starting from its fifteenth and sixteenth century representations by the painters of the Sienese school who influenced the landscape and urban planning of other areas of Toscana and central Italy in the same period. In the following centuries the type of inspiration changed: in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries the Val d'Orcia could be visited on the Grand Tour, during which a few months were dedicated to Tuscany to discover Renaissance art and culture.

In more recent times, Val d'Orcia has been a source of inspiration for numerous photographers, writers and film directors. The list of Italian and foreign films shot here is very long. To name just a few of the best known, there are Gladiator di Ridley Scott, The English patient di Anthony Minghella, Brother Sun, Sister Moon e Romeo e Giulietta, both by Franco Zeffirelli, e Nostalgia by Andrei Tarkovsky.

Landscape of the Val d'Orcia – Photo by Giuseppe ParisLandscape of the Val d'Orcia – Photo by Giuseppe Paris

Where to eat in Val d'Orcia

Val d'Orcia, thanks to the extraordinary variety of flavors of its typical dishes, foods and wines, is a perfect destination for lovers of food and wine tourism. Some products have an ancient history that dates back to Roman or even Etruscan times.

Thus, for example, the pecorino di Pienza, of which Lorenzo the Magnificent was also a great admirer. When visiting Pienza it is worth stopping in one of the various shops along Corso Rossellino to try the various qualities of this extraordinary cheese. In addition to the different degrees of maturation (from a month and a half to 24 months), there are some variations that add further nuances of flavor to the product: pecorino cheeses with orange/reddish skin, for example, are rubbed with tomato and olive oil before maturing; others are wrapped in leaves, still others are rubbed with wine must.

The typical fresh pasta of the Val d'Orcia is pici, similar to large spaghetti, with an irregular shape. The simplest ones are made only with flour and water, but there are also versions with egg or spinach. The most typical condiments for pici are aglione (a tomato sauce with plenty of garlic), cacio e pepe, with porcini mushrooms or with a game ragù, for example wild boar or hare. Also unmissable are the Cinta Senese DOP salamis, produced from pigs raised in the wild. In addition to the exceptional flavor, they are generally less fatty than common pork salamis.

All these tasty foods deserve to be accompanied by wines full of personality, capable at the same time of enhancing their flavours. The most famous wines of the area are red and are based on Sangiovese grapes. The probably best known one is the highly prized Brunello di Montalcino, produced 100% with Sangiovese grapes. Smaller, but still major, percentages characterize Nobile di Montepulciano and Orcia, the wine with the most recent DOC recognition.

Exhibition of Pienza pecorino cheeses - Photo by Dan
Exhibition of Pienza pecorino cheeses – Photo by Dan

Where to sleep in Val d'Orcia

A holiday in Val d'Orcia is a source of inspiration for anyone, especially if you choose to stay in authentic structures. You can choose to stay in the heart of one of the medieval villages, in one of the many historic buildings transformed into bed & breakfasts. If you are traveling in a group, you can rent a country house. Also in this case the offer is very wide and ranges from simple but still comfortable solutions to beautiful historic villas with swimming pools.

Finally, for those who want to experience the essence of the Val d'Orcia among the pampering of discreet luxury, the ideal solution is theHotel Fonteverde, in San Casciano dei Bagni. The hotel is built around a Renaissance portico commissioned by Grand Duke Ferdinando I de' Medici. The infinity pools of its SPA, fed by a nearby thermal spring already known to the Etruscans, allow you to relax while enjoying the benefits of the sulphurous water while admiring the landscapes of the Val d'Orcia. And, no less important, the culinary offerings of its restaurants range from traditional Tuscan dishes to lighter and more balanced ones, which combine taste with well-being. Because good food is also a source of inspiration.

The SPA of the Hotel Fonteverde
The SPA of the Hotel Fonteverde

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